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[Dr. D-Series]

Sounds like a plan.

4th gear nitrous shot might be in the works. Gives me 30+mph to work with before I hit the traps.

[chris]

10.90 car with 50 shot added ran 10.40's

[shogun]

congratulations, like the whole car specially the log manifold

[dvst8r]

You might want to try running a dp gauge, you can put it together cheap, goto HD get a couple feet of copper tubbing, drill and tap manifold, put copper tubing in a couple loose coils, add a compression fitting to go from the copper to normal nylon boost gauge. Go get a cheap air pressure gauge from HF or where ever, and done. Total setup should be under $25. This is a good tuning tool. In my experience this turbo should run 1:1 till about 35psim, and then climb slowly to about 1:2 at 40psim, and then will climb crazy after that and by 50psim your 75psi + drive.

If you do get to the point where you still need more out of the turbo GDS http://www.gillettdiesel.com/ has a 60mm compressor upgrade for $225. Or you can just jump to an HX40.  

[Dr. D-Series]

Were already running a gauge from the exhaust mani. But thanks for the info anyway.

Hx40 might be in the future. But i think Ill continue to use this one through NEXT year.

[johntsi]

I did the intake manifold. I have worked on flowbenchs enough I know what works and what doesnt. Proof in the pudding is it works.


Flowbench time is very expensive unless you personally own (10K)+ name brand units. When your porting manifolds for under 100 dollars to compete with CDM intake manifold like Bloxs sohc manifold that are horrible designs I have to undercut their prices. Also once you have worked/found out what works on a flowbench you dont have to keep retesting your work. Port work is an art form your hand will be pretty damn accurate after 100+ manifolds/heads.

How much to port y8 head and z6 mani and through on a 70mm TB w/ spacer? ;D

[crx-t]

Were already running a gauge from the exhaust mani. But thanks for the info anyway.

OK... I'm here to learn. I'm assuming this is so you can make sure the exhaust manifold pressure is less than the boost therefore not being restrictive? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[dvst8r]

Were already running a gauge from the exhaust mani. But thanks for the info anyway.

OK... I'm here to learn. I'm assuming this is so you can make sure the exhaust manifold pressure is less than the boost therefore not being restrictive? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

It doesn't have to be less, but you should be careful once you get above 1:1.2 or so. In short it shows the limits of turbine flow.

[dvst8r]

I should make this a little more clear. It measures turbine restriction, and / or manifold restriction.

[Joseph Davis]

Huh, what a funny way to go about it.  I normally dump in racegas and then crank the boost until it won't go any higher.


 

[90dx]

Okay you have set the bar period :yes: Well done sir

[dvst8r]

Huh, what a funny way to go about it.  I normally dump in racegas and then crank the boost until it won't go any higher.


 

I seem to have HG issues when I just crank the boost till it won't go any higher, the most I have seen with an H1C personally in my own vehicle is 52psim and it was ~83psi drive. That combined with the nearly 2000 degree egt's makes for very short lived HG's. I have heard of guys getting close to 60psi out of them though. I would love to see the kind of numbers a D would put down @ 50psim from an H1C though. 

[Joseph Davis]

I have no desire to do that with a D16.  The next D I have anything to do with the ports get hogged out to the point you can fist them as easily as you can fist hotrex's mom, and it'll like it.

[92CXyD]

I have no desire to do that with a D16.  The next D I have anything to do with the ports get hogged out to the point you can fist them as easily as you can fist hotrex's mom, and it'll like it.

Do you hogging out the intakes or the exhaust ports?

[chris]

the wheeze

[ApexSilver06MR]

the wheeze

is that vid still up?

[chris]

Nope

[ApexSilver06MR]

i found it


http://www.dragcityvideos.com/index.php?p=videoplay&vid=D31388E8-037F-373B-C602-1135237F36E5

[bigdaddyvtec]

Huh, what a funny way to go about it.  I normally dump in racegas and then crank the boost until it won't go any higher.


 

I seem to have HG issues when I just crank the boost till it won't go any higher, the most I have seen with an H1C personally in my own vehicle is 52psim and it was ~83psi drive. That combined with the nearly 2000 degree egt's makes for very short lived HG's. I have heard of guys getting close to 60psi out of them though. I would love to see the kind of numbers a D would put down @ 50psim from an H1C though. 

So if the turebine and or manifold becomes a retriction... how inneficient does it have to get before Boost starts to fall off.....  Reason Im asking is that I was seeing boost (and therefore TQ/HP) dramatically fall off above 7500 RPMs. I was assuming it was COmpressor being maxed out... But it could have been the turbiune housing... Actually I was thinking it was the turbvine housing moreso than the Compressor....   Hmmmmmmmmmmm... Shouldnt have that problem anymore but interesting...  but with a divided housin i guess youd actually need 2 sensors, or would 1 be enough if the length/ volume were exactly the same... Id really like to see where the new setup falls

[bigdaddyvtec]

i found it


http://www.dragcityvideos.com/index.php?p=videoplay&vid=D31388E8-037F-373B-C602-1135237F36E5

OG 

[chris]

i found it


http://www.dragcityvideos.com/index.php?p=videoplay&vid=D31388E8-037F-373B-C602-1135237F36E5

classic. Not bad for all honda parts

[onlyflash944]

but with a divided housin i guess youd actually need 2 sensors, or would 1 be enough if the length/ volume were exactly the same... Id really like to see where the new setup falls

why not have two ports, one on each volute, then one gauge.  not ideal, but it would work as long as everything else was running right

[dvst8r]

Huh, what a funny way to go about it.  I normally dump in racegas and then crank the boost until it won't go any higher.


 

I seem to have HG issues when I just crank the boost till it won't go any higher, the most I have seen with an H1C personally in my own vehicle is 52psim and it was ~83psi drive. That combined with the nearly 2000 degree egt's makes for very short lived HG's. I have heard of guys getting close to 60psi out of them though. I would love to see the kind of numbers a D would put down @ 50psim from an H1C though. 

So if the turebine and or manifold becomes a retriction... how inneficient does it have to get before Boost starts to fall off.....  

In my experience, this very's from turbo to turbo, and from setup to setup, but I have been as high as 2:1 drive pressure to manifold pressure respectively, and boost was still climbing. I have yet to be able to make it fall off. I need to find someone with a chipped stock 1.8T as they are known for the tiny turbo that chokes and falls off. This maybe more due to the fail of an internal wastegate then actual turbo choke though?

 In my world of diesel, where you have pulling class's limited to charger inlet size (2.6", 2.8", 3" are all common class's) they run these chargers for all they are worth. There are pulling chargers in singles that will make close to 100psi, these typically are a non wastegated setup. Now guys with street chargers or 2.6" class chargers, typically run wastegates, and because most after market wastegates only have springs readily available up to ~25psi, and from again my experiance when you get about 40psi drive on a 25psi spring it push's it open.

So to combat this early opening you can either use: Boost pressure to the top port this only works for a bit till the drive pressure overcomes that as well, or drive pressure to the top port to help keep the gate closed until the desired pressure is hit, or run the wastegate completely on drive pressure, or higher budget race setups run closed loop c02 activation. This seems to be true of most gates is that as you get above 1.5:1 - 1.7:1 drive to pressure to rated spring pressure, the wastegate is starting to be forced open. So if for example: You had a 10psi spring, this would mean that by 15-17psi you would start to loose some of your drive pressure out the wastegate. Or if you had a 14 psi spring by 21 - 24psi drive you would start to see some loss.

Now to clarify this the only way you will get to 25psi on a 14psi spring is with some sort of boost controler, that will keep the wastegate from seeing the boost till you reach the 25psi. Again IMHO I think this is where you see a lot of setups that the boost falls off on there race tune is that they have a 7psi spring in the wastegate and then use the MBC or EBC to bring in the rest of the boost.

Ok let's bring this back to gasoline and it's counterparts, I know that there was a video recently of a DSM that runs a BW S372 @ 88psi. I can only assume that they ran it to that kind of pressure, because they were still making more power as they added psim.

Thoughts???

[Joseph Davis]

In my experience, this very's from turbo to turbo, and from setup to setup, but I have been as high as 2:1 drive pressure to manifold pressure respectively, and boost was still climbing. I have yet to be able to make it fall off. I need to find someone with a chipped stock 1.8T as they are known for the tiny turbo that chokes and falls off. This maybe more due to the fail of an internal wastegate then actual turbo choke though?

Internal gate failure.

[dvst8r]

In my experience, this very's from turbo to turbo, and from setup to setup, but I have been as high as 2:1 drive pressure to manifold pressure respectively, and boost was still climbing. I have yet to be able to make it fall off. I need to find someone with a chipped stock 1.8T as they are known for the tiny turbo that chokes and falls off. This maybe more due to the fail of an internal wastegate then actual turbo choke though?

Internal gate failure.

I was kind of hoping for a bit more of a response then that. After all you responded to what was probably the most insignificant point in my 4 paragraph's (the vw bit), but thanks for clearing that up anyway. I still wonder what kind of drive pressures they see at like 25psi +

[Joseph Davis]

I'm not familiar with drive pressures, and I probably would have responded with more but I only read the first paragraph before the car was unloaded off the dyno.

[dvst8r]

Actually I would like to hear thoughts on this from you JD and from anyone else that is interested in this.

[Joseph Davis]

I think you need to find a VP44 truck and flash it for me.

Hope the checksum stuff works and it doesn't lock the ECU down.  Let me know if it does.

[dvst8r]

I think you need to find a VP44 truck and flash it for me.

Hope the checksum stuff works and it doesn't lock the ECU down.  Let me know if it does.

Lock it down like make the truck undrivable? I am PMing a guy about 2hrs north of me, that has a 24v and is interested, I will see if someone can come up with a spare ecu for testing.

[Joseph Davis]

It'd brick the ECU, yah, or maybe just put it into the diesel equivalent of limp home mode.  I could recover it with a BDM and a copy of the stock program, but there's time down and all that stupid stuff.

The CR trucks, the ECUs are supposed to run in the ~$200 range used.  I expect the VP44's are somewhat cheaper.  I'll talk smack to my boy with the CR and see if he can hook something up.

Also, I can pick up a '94 GMC dually for the cost of scrap.  Runs/ran, needs batteries and has sat lo9ng enough the turbo needs rebuit.  Was bought with front grill/fender damage a couple years back.  The $EE ECMs are a known reverse engineerable quantity and would give me something to blow up in pursuit of diesel knowledge.