Topic: turbo miata build thread ***Ripper on pg 3*** (Read 44830 times)

monty007 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 06, 2009, 03:18:21 PM »

nice work man!!! I wanna see drift vids!!! Must be wicked in a small, light-weight car and rear-wheel drive.

Robb · « **Reply #31 on:** November 06, 2009, 03:34:47 PM »

Quote from: monty007 on November 06, 2009, 03:18:21 PM

I wanna see drift vids!!!

Gay porn ban.

dvst8r · « **Reply #32 on:** November 06, 2009, 03:44:35 PM »

Quote from: Robb on November 06, 2009, 03:34:47 PM

Quote from: monty007 on November 06, 2009, 03:18:21 PM
I wanna see drift vids!!!

Gay porn ban.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #33 on:** November 06, 2009, 03:51:10 PM »

Quote from: dvst8r on November 06, 2009, 03:44:35 PM

Quote from: Robb on November 06, 2009, 03:34:47 PM
Quote from: monty007 on November 06, 2009, 03:18:21 PM
I wanna see drift vids!!!

Gay porn ban.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #34 on:** November 08, 2009, 02:10:00 PM »

Built a thing to hold the COPs down. Before they were just sitting there, and would sometimes vibrate up and get loose.

colt45 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 08, 2009, 05:10:17 PM »

glustic · « **Reply #36 on:** January 18, 2010, 02:01:57 PM »

Quote from: colt45 on November 08, 2009, 05:10:17 PM

^

True RHMT. Should have stolen the parts from something though.

7808 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2010, 04:53:32 PM »

ya needs more stolen parts lol

i like this build. do you have a mig welder or do u take stuff to get tig and migd? i was wondering why u didnt mig the wastegate the 1st time. i remember looking for a miata when i wanted to get away from FWD gayness and i know there fun as shit to drive but i prefer sedans anyways so i got a bmw

these looks a fuck lot easier to shove turbo parts in though

patsmx5 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:13:34 PM »

I have a Lincold AC/DC 225 stick welder and about 300lbs of various rods, and a Miller MIG 130. No TIG. I welded everything on the car myself except welding to the cast iron manifold for the wastegate. I had that TIG'd using a high Nickel filler.

glustic · « **Reply #39 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:27:03 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on February 02, 2010, 05:13:34 PM

I have a Lincold AC/DC 225 stick welder and about 300lbs of various rods, and a Miller MIG 130. No TIG. I welded everything on the car myself except welding to the cast iron manifold for the wastegate. I had that TIG'd using a high Nickel filler.

Update this thread nigger, fuck the other one!

patsmx5 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:33:04 PM »

Yeah I'll update it with the engine build tonight. Meant to put the engine build in this thread originally, but I didn't.

glustic · « **Reply #41 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:35:01 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on February 02, 2010, 05:33:04 PM

Yeah I'll update it with the engine build tonight. Meant to put the engine build in this thread originally, but I didn't.

Yeah you lazy fuck! Lookin forward to see that, fuck the other thread

bigwig · « **Reply #42 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:36:34 PM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on February 02, 2010, 05:13:34 PM

I have a Lincold AC/DC 225 stick welder and about 300lbs of various rods, and a Miller MIG 130. No TIG. I welded everything on the car myself except welding to the cast iron manifold for the wastegate. I had that TIG'd using a high Nickel filler.

That stick welder could quickly become a TIG welder for probably $200 in parts.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #43 on:** October 13, 2011, 01:20:18 PM »

Bump

I'm going to update this with my engine build in a bit...

patsmx5 · « **Reply #44 on:** October 13, 2011, 01:47:45 PM »

Here we go

Well I decided to build an engine over christmas break. Tried to keep it cheap.

Specs:

96' kia sephia engine with 81k miles w/ MBSP, 9.0:1 pistons, CAT forged rods.

Crush in the rod bearings was 3.5-4 thousandths, small end to wrist pin clearance was 9 tenthousandths, rod bearing to journal clearance was in middle of spec. Exintake cam installed and retarded 6 cam degrees (12 crank degrees) to give intake valve closing event in the low 60 degree range ABDC. Used but less than 10K miles on them/1 yr old water pump, timing belt, idler, and tensioner going back on.

Pics

Block cleaned, ready for assembly

Only one problem. No ring compressor and it was 10 PM, all the stores were closed. So I improvised.

Built engine cost

Trigger wheel setup machining         0
Bolts for trigger wheel             4
Supertech Synthetic oil & filter         20
Coolant & distilled water            15
Forged rods shipped CAT             266
Spare engine w/81k miles            88
Engine assembly lube             4
Complete gasket set shipped second hand new   40
RTV                     5
Brake parts cleaner               30
99' exhaust cam shipped            40
Valve cover gasket               21
Fuel hose for WG and BOV            6
Total:    499

499 bucks for a running engine with 8.4:1 compression and forged rods.

Hoping to sell these 99' pistons w/rings in excellent condition for 100, and sell the exhaust cam out of the kia engine (same head as 94-97 miata) for 75 with the camgear predrilled ready to install for an exintake swap. That will put the engine build close to 300 bucks.

It ran for 2 hours and ran great. Next day, it started burning more oil than gas. Turns out reusing the rings isn't such a good idea.

So I pulled it under the carport one morning around 8AM, pulled the engine, tore it down, honed the cylinders with the crank still in the block, cleaned it all up decent, installed a 50 dollar set of new rings, reused the rod bearings again, put all that shit back together, and fired it up at 10PM that night. That was during the summer of 10', car has been running great ever since. It burns a touch of oil for the first 5 minutes it's running (ring gaps are 0.020") but once it warms up it's fine. Keeping the rings a bit loose is why I can reliably run 300whp on stock kia sephia pistons.

Now the thing needs more injector so I can crank the boost some more. It's at 15psi I think, I turned the MBC till I hit 105% duty cycle on the injectors and the AFR was still in the 13's. I tried running more boost but the AFR's went into the 15's around 18 PSI so I figured I should probably wait till I get more injector.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #45 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:33:24 PM »

Yeah, 550's. I have a lot of headwork, and an exintake cam retarded 12 crank degrees, modified intake manifold, .87 twin scroll hotside T3. It breaths. I'd say it make peak power around 7500ish.

SloS13 · « **Reply #46 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:54:52 PM »

I got that same transformer ass flashlight. FTW

Towdogg · « **Reply #47 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:15:44 PM »

Quote from: SloS13 on October 13, 2011, 05:54:52 PM

I got that same transformer ass flashlight. FTW

glustic · « **Reply #48 on:** October 30, 2011, 01:51:38 AM »

I like your ring compressor...

patsmx5 · « **Reply #49 on:** December 11, 2011, 09:44:13 PM »

Car is around 300whp right now, has a 5 speed that is dying. I think I could get 350whp out of this turbo setup if I put a bigger fuel pump and injectors, and I need a 6 speed transmission (750 bucks...) so it will take the power without shitting itself. Or, I could start saving up for an LSx swap.... Would have to buy another GT3271 for it though.

Thoughts?

HiProfile · « **Reply #50 on:** December 11, 2011, 11:41:50 PM »

Can your fuel rail deal with injectors that are 1/2" shorter? If so I might have an option for you soon.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #51 on:** December 12, 2011, 12:05:34 AM »

Quote from: patsmx5 on December 11, 2011, 09:44:13 PM

Car is around 300whp right now, has a 5 speed that is dying. I think I could get 350whp out of this turbo setup if I put a bigger fuel pump and injectors, and I need a 6 speed transmission (750 bucks...) so it will take the power without shitting itself. Or, I could start saving up for an LSx swap.... Would have to buy another GT3271 for it though.

Thoughts?

Tight fit!

You need to crank the boost!

patsmx5 · « **Reply #52 on:** December 12, 2011, 06:21:02 PM »

Quote from: HiProfile on December 11, 2011, 11:41:50 PM

Can your fuel rail deal with injectors that are 1/2" shorter? If so I might have an option for you soon.

I don't think so, from the factory it has some 1/4" spacers but I'm not even running those right now with these RC injectors. Aren't you the one that sells the ID injectors? If I buy some, I was wanting to get those as I hear they are the shit.

HiProfile · « **Reply #53 on:** December 12, 2011, 07:12:36 PM »

I don't sell ID, but I do modify injectors. I've been doing more injector research than I'll admit to lately. I do have some Bosch EV14's I'm going to test on, which is what ID uses.

I think stock miata injectors are the denso style, and I figured you still had the stock connectors for some reason. I'm going to be flow matching a lot of decapped denso injectors in the coming weeks.

I do have some Siemens Deka injectors I don't need. They're 780cc peak/hold with EV1 connectors (square), but they are a bit shorter than Honda injectors. They are 1.5" from the fuel rail bottom to the manifold's seal.

glustic · « **Reply #54 on:** December 13, 2011, 01:58:45 AM »

Quit being a bitch and get a new tranny fuel pump and injectors

Ntrain2k · « **Reply #55 on:** December 13, 2011, 08:26:43 AM »

Do what you need to do to make the power you want with the current setup. When you get tired of it sell it as a package to fund the LSX swap.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #56 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:11:31 PM »

Quote from: glustic on December 13, 2011, 01:58:45 AM

Quit being a bitch and get a new tranny fuel pump and injectors

Well I put some 1K cc injectors in and a 255 HP walbro. Map sensor quit reading at 22.56 psi, went somewhere north of that and it was breaking up. Put a bigger map sensor in and it was at 25 psi. It's breaking up in boost though, after 20 psi or so. I tried gapping down the plugs from .045, to .030, no change. Tried upping the boost to 27-28 psi, results are inconclusive so far.

I datalogged it and figured out it's a tach signal problem. I had to go back to work, but I'll fix it in a few months I hope when I pick the car up.

BTW: miata + GT3271 + 27 PSI =

It made a clean pass 4-5 times, and when it did, it fucking ripped! Friend of mine with a supercharged to 10 psi mustang GT wouldn't race me.

patsmx5 · « **Reply #57 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:13:38 PM »

Oh yeah, and all that on a fucking stock ass motor with nothing but ebay rods. Even reused the rod bearings twice now. BP's are beast.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 08, 2012, 09:12:31 AM »

Drop the gap down to .018!

92CXyD · « **Reply #59 on:** May 08, 2012, 09:40:40 AM »

Quote from: crxvtec91 on May 08, 2012, 09:12:31 AM

Drop the gap down to .018!

yeap

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Author Topic: turbo miata build thread ***Ripper on pg 3*** (Read 44830 times)

bigwig

Author Topic: turbo miata build thread Ripper on pg 3 (Read 44830 times)