:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: 92CXyD on March 14, 2009, 06:12:01 PM
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The victim for this build is a '92 Civic CX. I picked it up for free from my brother in law after he wrecked it twice in the nose. I drove this car back from Fairfax VA. to Casper Wyoming.
Some times running on 3 cylinders b/c of a hole in the sparkplug boot.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209617.jpg&hash=a9f70a2f285db8c35e524699d460bfe97f6ae9d6)
After driving my hatch for about 3yrs as is and at one point even achieving 44.5mpg or 667miles on one tank of gas in town. I wanted to compete in my local auto-x events with a little bit more power. So I got a d16z6 w/ trans. out of a '94 EX coupe w/ unknown mileage.
Installed it w/ an Egay 6-puck clutch and chrome moly lite flywheel (11lbs.) and a cheap SS headers to make my exhaust easier to hook up. I had a buddy who gave me his homemade 2.5" exhaust which I installed. I originally had no catylitic converter but after walking behind my car and about died from the fumes I installed one.
These pictures are of the SC14 I bought for $250. These s/c come out of '95 to '97 Toyota Previa. I got the idea to use one of these when I read about 1g MR2 use these to upgrade from their SC12 to SC14 on 1.6l 4age. And I own a '96 Previa AWD S/C. These pictures show where my original planned location until I realized I would have no room for my driver side cv-axle and the pulley was too close to the shock tower. Notice the a/c cluth pulley.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209419.jpg&hash=b74e4def8948a075c39942f7014277619da8b5be)
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The next two pictures give you an idea the size of the SC14.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209415.jpg&hash=093d8cea24efc60235a3a05a64cd40aa9c5e7808)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209414.jpg&hash=726a6d073f19b40ab07b0a9c772b55e81f060256)
I realize the only way to get this in was to take out the a/c system.
I started cutting the radiator support to make more room.
But after looking at my wife's hatchback the iI found tons room if I use a scissor jack to push the bottom of the rad support away from the engine back to its OE location.
Wires and hoses going every where. 1g bov, intercooler, piping, and coupler from a buddy for $65 helped. Three of those couplers are not being used I had the pipes welded including using my old cold air intake.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209611.jpg&hash=f68fdcdbc76b82732a1881c2fa72c59c462c91d5)
Intercooler and s/c outlet manifold and air filter. These SC14s comes with oil dipsticks. I could mount it upright. Looking at the bypass tube and valve I had to duct tape them closed since I did not have way of controlling the bypass yet.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209610.jpg&hash=e2e158d4ac998c93182e6d97ef2ef490c535d455)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209609.jpg&hash=83c7d4ed5b7d5a16f207f3456ab080cec271b55f)
I wired the SC14 clutch pulley to the original a/c compressor clutch activation switch. And jumper-ed the pressure switch plug. Now the main power to my s/c was the a/c switch on my dash. I used the original a/c tensioner pulley assembly. For the idler pulley I just used a longer bolt through the bottom bracket holding s/c. Long enough to use spacers to space the pulley out to line up with belt and pulleys.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209608.jpg&hash=cc870858f6fa6bdb2b2b96cbcda148a61fa3af77)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209607.jpg&hash=0032d8cd7eaef8d3583822d938fbc5d3ad84aff1)
I ran a hose (spare rad. hose) from the bov to the air filter assembly
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209606.jpg&hash=c6193364b93f73a2ca5293290953962c890b0538)
I originally used 450cc DSM inj., resistor box, and a V-AFC. I know that the v-afc is junk but I did not have any parts to use to chip my ecu.
I drove this setup for 4 month with very little problems. Until I lost rod #4.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0359.jpg&hash=6112f3d4112447e71ad43f697e5f32200541272a)
Built another motor
Which I'll post here when I start taking more pictures.
Motor plan includes:
D16z6 block already filled with devcon
Block decked 0.020in and bored and honed to a p2w of 0.004 to 0.0045in.
D16z6 crank stock
Vitara ycp pistons 75.5mm o/s w/ new Honda 75.5mm Rings. (for the rings thanks Jargon pistons from a HMT member's name I lost from the whole website snafu)
Used TT rods w/ new ARP 2000 bolts. (also from a HMT member's name I lost from the whole website snafu)
New stock bearings.
New Water pump
D16y8 cylinderhead will be used with a lite port matching. (thanks to Teng Vang I forgot his hmt name but thanks mang.)
Stock ported D16z6 intake w/ 788cc injectors. (thanks to Super Dipper).
I'm using a slightly modified H23a tb which helps a lot when not under boost compared to stock tb.
I'm planning on designing a new intake mani w/ 4 tbs and a plenumn w/ a 3" inlet. It will have provisions for 2 rows of inj. and larger fuel rails.
I plan on having a turbo on top of this setup or twincharge system I like to call it.
I plan on either using one of these:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209579.jpg&hash=af18db80c2344639773993baa84f71679ad3cbba)
The green turbo is a used Mercedes diesil To4b unknown comp. w/ less than5k miles b/c the motor was replaced with a new turbo and the motor ran out of oil but did not damage the turbo.
The red turbo is a T0468 with a S-trim comp. New never used
The silver/natural turbo is a T0445 unknown comp. New never used
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209578.jpg&hash=b6ac64314e7510d0542a6e9ab612fccafab454f0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209577.jpg&hash=957e59a2ccd189c04a58212e287bc70975cee261)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209576.jpg&hash=e83c980402fad5be49cb3f14622aa26b4c0b963a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209575.jpg&hash=8d620e9e30563d97a152c16c3d5f7ce59fe88926)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209574.jpg&hash=ed4e428f2572139b64152f674e8d5f3addcef93b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws.com%2Fephotospace%2F209573.jpg&hash=d14c14bad80da35b4fab7a49772688375b32152c)
All three turbines are O-trim and have a split turbine housing.
I'm either going to use the red turbo with a blockoff plate on the inner port of the turbine housing or buy a T70 and sell these three turbos.
I'm also designing new inlet and outlet manifolds to the SC14 for both better flow and to give more room to clear the exhaust mani.
I'm either going to make a sink trap of the 4-2 part of my header and mount the turbo at the same height as a top mount mani. would w/ 3" downpipe and a wg on the sink trap pipe or get a top mount mani. made for me.
I am open to ideas but keep in mind I am on a tight budget.
:noel:
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NICE! Cool project you've got going. Can you give us an idea of how fast the SC made it? Better/worse than a JRSC?
Just a few pointers - the bypass should dump back into the SC's intake, assuming the bypass valve is the correct kind which opens with the slightest amount of vacuum. Also the s-trim will pump out ~325whp, and the turbine won't help too much with power, but spool far slower than T3 turbine.
Also, the ITB's won't really be needed at that HP level. The sohc intake really isn't the issue, the whole intake/head/cam is. Regardless, a handful of people have made 400whp with a stock intake/head/cam. Spend your money on a cam or turbo before the ITB's.
If you plan on making a sinktrap manifold, you'll have to do a few things. First, change the intake so the filter is right in front of the driver's side motor mount. Next, get an EF waterneck (and rad hose) for the block - it will turn the rad hose so it exits about 45* more towards the passenger side to give more downpipe room.
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NICE! Cool project you've got going. Can you give us an idea of how fast the SC made it? Better/worse than a JRSC?
Just a few pointers - the bypass should dump back into the SC's intake, assuming the bypass valve is the correct kind which opens with the slightest amount of vacuum. Also the s-trim will pump out ~325whp, and the turbine won't help too much with power, but spool far slower than T3 turbine.
Also, the ITB's won't really be needed at that HP level. The sohc intake really isn't the issue, the whole intake/head/cam is. Regardless, a handful of people have made 400whp with a stock intake/head/cam. Spend your money on a cam or turbo before the ITB's.
If you plan on making a sinktrap manifold, you'll have to do a few things. First, change the intake so the filter is right in front of the driver's side motor mount. Next, get an EF waterneck (and rad hose) for the block - it will turn the rad hose so it exits about 45* more towards the passenger side to give more downpipe room.
With the SC14 I have hit 18psig before but I usually run around 10-12psi. at WOT and
from 1k to 7k rpms.
I try not to over rev. the s/c b/c it has design limits of 10k continuous and 12k instantaneous redline.
refer to: http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_products/sc/sc_siyou.htm (http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_products/sc/sc_siyou.htm) and http://www.mr2supercharger.com/SCblowers2 (http://www.mr2supercharger.com/SCblowers2) (look at the bottom of page.)
On the first link look at part# TX15
On the second link look at part # ‚s‚w‚P‚T
With the crank pulley to s/c pulley ratio of 1.4:1
I run my engine up to 6k =8.4k at the s/c. I do plan on installing a throttle switch similar to a NOS activation full throttle switch.
The SC14 is a 1440/rev = 84cid compare to a 46cid or 64cid JRSC super plus I use an intercooler. My intake temp. never go over 20 deg above ambient.
With a JRSC 46cid on a D16z6 they start to heat the charged air considerably above 4k rpms.
So I would say SC14>JRSC in my book plus I spent less than $600 for this setup.
I never got to a drag strip yet but I know I can get in the 13sec in the 1/4 for sure maybe lower.
I had a buddy ride with me and counted a little over 5 sec. to go from 0 to 60mph.
As for the bypass where I hook the 1g DSM bov the hose runs to the inlet of my s/c already.
The bov is hooked up to the tb like on turbo applications. One of the problems with this bov is it does not release the compressed air fast enough.
As for ITBs I already have a set but I will explore the option more later.
I do want to go over the 450 bhp range so I may have to sell 3 T04bs but I would like to play with them using the divided housing block off.
As far as the sink trap setup you mentioned the intake. My intake is on the driver's side just above the s/c. And the idea with using an EF water outlet is a good one I was wondering if I could some how route that differently.
Thanks for the feedback. ;D
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This is good shit!
Can we get some better pics of the work it takes to do just the junkyard SC? That would be cool! I would do this :yes:
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I'll post some as soon as the weather warmer in my neck the woods. ;D
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Badass build! It spools 10-12 psi already at 2K rpm's?
Are you planning to run it to engine redline, or just disable it at higher rpm's and let the turbo take over?
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Disable it at 6k or 7k rpms.
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Really nice I am loving it. The Tq this puts out must make a fun DD. BTW do you have more pic's of the work you did to put the sc in, also pic's of it with out the header?
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No I didn't have many pictures of the installation.
I will when I reinstall the s/c on my new D16z6/y8.
The lower bracket (modified d-series alt. bracket) will be reused but the upper bracket will be rigidly constructed.
The inlet manifold to the s/c will be designed to give more direct flow.
And I will have the e-bypass that came the SC14 will be active to help reroute flow around the the s/c when s/c pulley is not active.
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While taking my setup apart so I can get new motor in I noticed about 3 or 4 canidates for boost leaks.
I think once I get every thing back together and all my boost leaks taken care of I will be running closer to 14 to 16psig at same rpm range I was running 10 to 12 psig. ;D
Hell after fixing the boost leak issues I could even possibly be in the 20psig area. :o
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I really want to see the SC write up! Thats gonna be sweet :yes:
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so when you do your twin set up how would you turn the sc on and off fast enought i know you use the ac clutch but is that going to fast at the track? like im unsure how to word what im asking .. the point to me to run a twin set up would be to run a nasty big turbo and use the sc to spool that. right? but do you use the ac switch to turn it on and off? and aslo one more think with the twin set up do you run the out put from the sc to the inlet on the turbo or???
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so when you do your twin set up how would you turn the sc on and off fast enought i know you use the ac clutch but is that going to fast at the track? like im unsure how to word what im asking .. the point to me to run a twin set up would be to run a nasty big turbo and use the sc to spool that. right? but do you use the ac switch to turn it on and off? and aslo one more think with the twin set up do you run the out put from the sc to the inlet on the turbo or???
I'll run the turbo outlet to s/c inlet once the total boost reaches a intended level the s/c is switch off and bypass vaalve route the charged air around the s/c.
Then the turbo maintains boost in the 5k to what ever revs. I want.
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sounds really cool would like to know more about the set up and how it works
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Dude.... Sick build.
If I were you though, I'd pulley the SC to make say 12 PSI. Then air goes:
airfilter>bigfuckingturbo>small 60%+ efficient IC>inlet of SC> out of SC> big fucking IC> engine.
The turbo's WG would be referenced to the turbo's outlet such that it maintains a certain pressure pre-SC. Then let the SC compound this by w/e pressure ratio you pulley it to.
If you get your pulleys and boost setting right, you can get manifold absolute pressure > pre-turbine absolute pressure. Then you can go wild with the cams and dial in huge overlap and make some serious power at high RPMs.
$0.02.
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so when you do your twin set up how would you turn the sc on and off fast enought i know you use the ac clutch but is that going to fast at the track? like im unsure how to word what im asking .. the point to me to run a twin set up would be to run a nasty big turbo and use the sc to spool that. right? but do you use the ac switch to turn it on and off? and aslo one more think with the twin set up do you run the out put from the sc to the inlet on the turbo or???
I'll run the turbo outlet to s/c inlet once the total boost reaches a intended level the s/c is switch off and bypass vaalve route the charged air around the s/c.
Then the turbo maintains boost in the 5k to what ever revs. I want.
About the Twin setup.
There's a smart easy way to do it totally mechanic in which the transition from Sc to turbo is smooth and does not create problems. It's done with a "Y" one-way valve.
Once the turbo's pressure starts to overpower the SC's output, the valve gradually flips until it closes off the SC; at which point the SC bypass valve kicks in, and the SC is not absorbing energy anymore,since it's not compressing air.
And when you let off and the turbo fades, the SC (it's still there, spinning) pushes open the swing valve, the bypass automatically closes and the SC it starts compressing air and its boost flows to the engine.
And so on....
This is the system that was developed in the rally Lancia S4: they kept having trouble in the transition, so they went mechanical and it proved perfect.
For this system you need a bypass on the SC and one after the turbo. It works fine whether you have SC feeding the Turbo or viceversa, you just need to do the plumbing right.
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In other words the nice thing of this system is that you don't have to guesss, switch at 5k or at X psi, and then it's not smooth and the boost drops or the car bogs.
With the mechanical valve the boost grows and gradually and automatically switches on and off the SC. Also this way it's much easier to mate a large turbo to the SC.
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Dude.... Sick build.
If I were you though, I'd pulley the SC to make say 12 PSI. Then air goes:
airfilter>bigfuckingturbo>small 60%+ efficient IC>inlet of SC> out of SC> big fucking IC> engine.
The turbo's WG would be referenced to the turbo's outlet such that it maintains a certain pressure pre-SC. Then let the SC compound this by w/e pressure ratio you pulley it to.
If you get your pulleys and boost setting right, you can get manifold absolute pressure > pre-turbine absolute pressure. Then you can go wild with the cams and dial in huge overlap and make some serious power at high RPMs.
$0.02.
I'm probably going to use just one IC and it will be after both compressors b/c I use the S/C only when I need to aggressively accelerate.
I still have to keep this as a DD so I want to maintain some kind of mileage which I still get 30+mpg in town. :yes:
The turbo part based on two different programs I'm using for modeling I'll have to use a T57 to a T70 type compressor b/c
when sizing I treat the engine and S/C as a total package.
So instead of entering a 85% V.E. at 6k for engine I have to enter 182% to 187% V.E. to size turbo when using the S/C at the same time.
But the tricky part is the S/C turns off and I use a bypass valve(s) I run strictly on the turbo I will I have to use one of these turbos while their spooled up.
In other words the nice thing of this system is that you don't have to guess, switch at 5k or at X psi, and then it's not smooth and the boost drops or the car bogs.
With the mechanical valve the boost grows and gradually and automatically switches on and off the SC. Also this way it's much easier to mate a large turbo to the SC.
Is there some kind of diagram to explain this being done mechanically?
I'm using DSM 1g BOV as a bypass now but it does not release enough vol. of charged air fast enough so I'm picking up another one.
After I fix the boost leaks on this setup I think I would hitting 12-14psig with spikes of 18-20psig so I will need more vol. to bypass the s/c when I let the throttle go below 50% and the S/C pulley deactivates.
Thanks guy for the ideas keep them coming.
I like fresh thoughts for this project.
I will have the new engine done by middle Apr.
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If I was to give it a shot, I'd do something like solenoid & throttle body as the bypass, assuming you have to SC->turbo->fmic->engine.
The problem is the SC turning off. Roger McDaniels has proof, not a guess, that an SC takes less power to turn than the power steering pump when it freewheels, meaning fully bypassed. I'd run it SC->turbo->fmic->engine, then just have a LARGE bypass between the SC & turbo. When the bypass opens, the SC is just moving air, not compressing it.
In short, the SC clutch is ONLY useful with a good working bypass. If you could make an MS PAINT version of your idea, then I could understand it & help out.
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If I was to give it a shot, I'd do something like solenoid & throttle body as the bypass, assuming you have to SC->turbo->fmic->engine.
The problem is the SC turning off. Roger McDaniels has proof, not a guess, that an SC takes less power to turn than the power steering pump when it freewheels, meaning fully bypassed. I'd run it SC->turbo->fmic->engine, then just have a LARGE bypass between the SC & turbo. When the bypass opens, the SC is just moving air, not compressing it.
In short, the SC clutch is ONLY useful with a good working bypass. If you could make an MS PAINT version of your idea, then I could understand it & help out.
I'll try to MSPaint when I get home but I'm good at it.
I may just draw it out on some Engineerin Comp. paper and take a picture instead.
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Dude.... Sick build.
If I were you though, I'd pulley the SC to make say 12 PSI. Then air goes:
airfilter>bigfuckingturbo>small 60%+ efficient IC>inlet of SC> out of SC> big fucking IC> engine.
The turbo's WG would be referenced to the turbo's outlet such that it maintains a certain pressure pre-SC. Then let the SC compound this by w/e pressure ratio you pulley it to.
If you get your pulleys and boost setting right, you can get manifold absolute pressure > pre-turbine absolute pressure. Then you can go wild with the cams and dial in huge overlap and make some serious power at high RPMs.
$0.02.
I'm probably going to use just one IC and it will be after both compressors b/c I use the S/C only when I need to aggresively accelerate.
I still have to keep this as a DD so I want to maintain some kind of mileage which I still get 30+mpg in town. :yes:
The turbo part part based on two different programs I'm using for modeling I'll have to use a T57 to a T70 type compressor b/c
when sizing I treat the engine and S/C as a total package.
So instead of entering a 85% V.E. at 6k for engine I have to enter 182% to 187% V.E. to size turbo when using the S/C at the same time.
But the tricky part is the S/C turns off and I use a bypass valve(s) I run strickly on the turbo I wil I have to use one of these turbos while their spooled up.
In other words the nice thing of this system is that you don't have to guesss, switch at 5k or at X psi, and then it's not smooth and the boost drops or the car bogs.
With the mechanical valve the boost grows and gradually and automatically switches on and off the SC. Also this way it's much easier to mate a large turbo to the SC.
Is there some kind of diagram to explain this being done mechanically?
I'm using DSM 1g BOV as a bypass now but it does not release enough vol. of charged air fast enough so I'm picking up another one.
After I fix the boost leaks on this setup I think I would hitting 12-14psig with spikes of 18-20psig so I will need more vol. to bypass the s/c when I let the trottle go below 50% and the S/C pulley deactivates.
Thanks guy for the ideas keep them coming.
I like fresh thoughts for this project.
I will have the new engine done by middle Apr.
Yeah. Well, your way will work. My way won't hurt your mileage any more though. And then you wouldn't need any bypass valves either...
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next time you are near fairfax, shoot me a pm and I'll buy you a beer
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In other words the nice thing of this system is that you don't have to guesss, switch at 5k or at X psi, and then it's not smooth and the boost drops or the car bogs.
With the mechanical valve the boost grows and gradually and automatically switches on and off the SC. Also this way it's much easier to mate a large turbo to the SC.
Is there some kind of diagram to explain this being done mechanically?
I'm using DSM 1g BOV as a bypass now but it does not release enough vol. of charged air fast enough so I'm picking up another one.
After I fix the boost leaks on this setup I think I would hitting 12-14psig with spikes of 18-20psig so I will need more vol. to bypass the s/c when I let the trottle go below 50% and the S/C pulley deactivates.
Thanks guy for the ideas keep them coming.
I like fresh thoughts for this project.
I will have the new engine done by middle Apr.
Here's what I drew at one time:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi4.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy138%2Frobineticus%2Ftwincharge.jpg&hash=535b8d86e471287176eaa16d1821d6862bf92998)
I didn't put the BOVs there but they're obvious—one (recirculating) after SC and before the valve, the other between Turbo and TB.
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nice work
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Looking good.
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next time you are near fairfax, shoot me a pm and I'll buy you a beer
Will do I may even go to the Dyno day thing at JD's shop when ever it is in May, June, July or Aug. that was talked about.
If the Dyno day thing is in Aug. I could have the twincharge setup completed then get it fully tuned in NC.
Then I would take whole family to Fairfax and shot down to Ashville for Dyno Days. ;D
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that thing is cool.
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hey im building d16 any suggestions?
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Step 1: Rope
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hey im building d16 any suggestions?
Dont the metal is hard to cast, id just buy one.
So hows it running Russ?
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It cranks over easier. ;D
I had it running with little smoke but I can not get it to run well yet.
When I got back from RHMT D-day I had water in the oil pan b/c I forgot to put a oil filter back on the engine after we cutup the original filter I had on the engine. :'(
I had spark isssues so I pulled the plugs to find water in the sparkplug holes. :?:
Dried all that out and cleaned the plugs.
I did get the dizzy replaced with a non-vtec obd one bolts up good and looks like it is clocked in the right place.
I got an adj. cam gear and per. article on d-series I advance the cam 4.5deg (half a tooth). ;D
I decided to just clean up the bearings and flush out anymore metal pieces I might have missed before.
I put the bearings back in and torque everthing back to what they were suppose to be at.
I can hand crank the motor now with a little effort.
I'm right now figuring out the Crome tuning. :?:
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non vtec obd1 dizzy ftw on d16y8 head.
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I got my car running ok now.
I found that my diys 3-bar map was bad so I put a stock map sensor back on the car and the car started right up.
It runs but now the rad. fan does not kick on.
I checked the relay, fuses, and even jumped the sensor and no fan.
I ran a power directly to the fan and it kicks on so some how I have a break in the wiring but that makes no sense.
I have the 390cc inj. on from when we switched out the 788cc Delphi. So I'm going to put the 780cc inj. back on.
I'm ordering another 3-bar map from digikey and get that soldered with less wattage this time. :?:
I'm getting another flange welded on the piping for another 1g DSM bov.
I'm thinking of running the bov signal lines to the port for the brake booster.
I originally ran the vac. signal line teed off the ext. map signal hooked up (b/c I was using a h23 tb)
Any suggestions?
If I had not have the V-AFC still hooked up I would have not notice the map signal was constantly at -760mm hg and I would still be chasing my tail. ;D
So I guess they are good for something.
As soon as I get the 3-bar map and some other minor things fixed I will post ripper vids.
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bump for updates
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bump for updates
I hope to have updates this weekend.
I ran out of gas and too fucking poor to buy more fuel until thurs. :?:
My fan issue is taken care of by making the wiring rats nest with my ecu and v-afc less of a rats nest. :?:
I have the delphi 75lb inj. back in, 3-bar map sensor done, and the egt gauge works now.
I still need to straighten out the WB O2 gauge b/c it worked well before engine build.
I need to get a flange welded on the charge pipe for my second 1g dsm bov.
Get the full throttle switch setup on tb.
Figure out how to change the S/C bypass valve to work as an on/off affair as oppose to toyota's original ecu valve angle motor setup. I may even have an adapter made to run a 1g DSM bov there and have it work of the vacumn from the S/C output mani. vac, signal.
I want to do a better breather/PVC system .
And the most important thing get some fuel in the tank so I can street tune this bitch.
Get a new vatozone cone air filter this time a longer rechargeable one that does not rust.
When I was playing with the S/C, when I had my car running with 390cc inj., I popped a clamp on the charge piping already.
Oh yeah I will be cutting the charge piping down a bit on the passenger side after the 90deg 2.5" to 3" adapter so that I can run the piping a little tighter and put a regular front bumper on without cutting a large whole in the corner of another bumper.
I'm trying to have my car ready for a possible Corvette Roundup race Labor Day weekend. I have done two with regional Corvette Club on a 3.25 mile course and i did very well.
This time I want to place in the top 10 percent instead of in the middle of 70+ Corvette field.
I'm also looking at getting my car to Douglas Motor Speedway for some 1/4mile slips before going to Bandimere in Sept. for an import show and race (my car is too ugly for show) ;D
I still plan on running a turbo on top of this setup in the future most likely a Holset but that will be after some dyno tuning and seeing what this setup will do reliablely. I will probably have to go to Denver or back upto Seattle area for dyno time who knows.
I found something interesting in Crome P30 Plugins Controls Air Conditioning Cutoff I can use that to turn the S/C off if I get too high in the revs. for comfort. I like that then I will not have to just rely on the A/C switch on the dash or the full throttle switch on the tb as much. ;D
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My fan issue is taken care of by making the wiring rats nest with my ecu and v-afc less of a rats nest. :?:
Fuck I hate the V-AFC wiring aftermath, even if installed by a pro into his own car. And there's so little realistic funtionality with those POS's in a Honda.
FYI as you may have noticed, it's best to get the car running FULLY STOCK in terms of fuel & electronics before adding shit. That way each issue can be traced to the last thing you installed, rather than 20 things that mask each other's problems.
You do have the vacuum bypass installed & functioning, right???
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Ok I decided to not have a "double barrel action" with the bov b/c with the full throttle switch I can have the S/C turned off when I let go of the throttle. Before I use to just hit the a/c button on the dash just before I let the throttle go to keep the piping from popping off. I do have most of my piping with a bead welded around the ends except for one spot.
As for the vacumn bypass (1g DSM BOV) I have that hooked up to the brake booster circuit before the check valve.
I will hook it up to the PCV outlet on the intake mani. when I figure out what I'm doing with the PCV/breather system.
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As for the vacumn bypass (1g DSM BOV) I have that hooked up to the brake booster circuit before the check valve.
I will hook it up to the PCV outlet on the intake mani. when I figure out what I'm doing with the PCV/breather system.
Either I don't understand you, or you don't understand the function of a vac bypass on a supercharger. When the throttle is closed and the SC still turning, you build boost in charge pipes but pull vacuum in the intake manifold. That vacuum opens the bypass, which bypasses (re-routes) the pressure from the charge pipes to the intake side of the supercharger (or a raw dump to atmosphere). W/o one you build a shitton of boost in the pipes, which is causing your beaded pipes to fly off.
A typical vac bypass is a simple valve that gets held OPEN with vacuum developed between the TB and SC or (in your case) TB and cylinder head. Once it sees 0 vacuum [at WOT], it closes to allow boost to build. I honestly can't imagine how a dsm bov could function like that unless you've really hacked it up.
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I think you do not understand the SC14 supercharger there is no vac. bypass only a 6-wire ecu controled bypass valve. 2-wires are constant battery voltage and 4-wires in sequence to open the valve. Then reverse that sequence to close the valve.
I have been using a 1g DSM bov to help since I have no just to recirculate pressure around the s/c.
If I have s/c turned off the bov stays open due to vac. signal from tb.
Keep in mind most s/c have the tb ahead of the s/c.
I treat this s/c like a turbo. In that s/c is a compressor pushing charged air into intercooler then tb w/ a bov.
I have pipes popping b/c I do not have s/c turned off before the throttle completely closes and I'm not relieving pressure fast enough.
I'm working on a vac. or on-off electronic valve some I can only rely on the bov.
Since I have my car running (not in perfect order yet, I still need a street tune) I will work on the bracket for the full throttle switch.
And the s/c bypass. I'll try and get a scanned copy of the workings of this s/c bypass valve from the toyota shop manual I have.
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The bitch runs not perfectly but she runs.
The resistor box wiring hack job was not solder yet and power was not getting to the inj.
Fixed it and I'm trying to do a street tune on her now sorta b/c I have only a burn2 and hulog xtreme.
I have not figured out the datalog yet but I will.
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Alright my car runs again really well I must say.
I have the Crome tuning issue straightened out. I'll upload pict, crome bin for this build, and some vids. this weekend. I'm trying to get some dragstrip seat time this weekend or in two weeks.
All depends on how far off my tune is when I replace the wb.
It runs stronger then last summer when I first put the s/c on my junkyard special d16z6.
My next goal is to make the import show/race at Bandimere speedway Sept. 20th and maybe get some good times.
The setup:
D16z6 block bore 0.5mm over and decked 0.020"
D16y8 head w/ stock valvetrain and lightly ported by me and matched to a z6 intake mani.
Adj. Cam gear (egay)
Vitara pistons w/ TT rods with new ARP fasteners.
Stock rings (0.5mm os)
Sealed Power main and rod bearings
Modified oil pump and passages in block including matching hole sizes to main bearings
Chipped P28 using Chrome 1.5.3
Delphi 75# inj. w/ resistor box
70-65mm TB w/ spacer matched to my z6 intake (TB from Chris @ Polarbeartuning.com)
Stock ex trans.
SC14 supercharger (1440cc/rev or 84cid) from a '96-'97 Toyota Previa.
Crush 1g DSM BOV as a recirculator valve (works awesome btw)
This setup seems to reach 10psi+ faster.
I can go to 8k rpms if I want which can be of a handful car seems to torque stear a little.
With a little luck this winter I'm strapping a Holset on top this setup. ;D
Twincharge/compound boost/crazy boost :yes:
I'm working out the launch control in Crome for this setup now because the way this setup is in first gear the s/c barely noticeable and my 60ft will probably suck (>2.5sec)
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Cant wait to see the video
and its polarbeartuning.com
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Cant wait to see the video
and its polarbeartuning.com
Corrected
I had a setback while playing with my car Fri. (8/14). I fried my alternator the rotor had a broken lead.
My battery lead to the underhood fuse box was too shitty to help keep the battery charged so I was running most of the time on alternator.
I manage to wedge a red Optimus battery in and redid some cables and took stash of 4 alternator and built a good one.
I forgot how easy it is to work on Denso alt. just simple hand tools no souldering.
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So you going to twin charge or what? You know the company that makes the SC12 and SC14 for Toyota also made a TX20 which would be a SC20 if it was used on a Toyota. The company is Ogura Clutch that made them. It would be interesting. How many lbs are you making and how much hp you think it is putting out?
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vid????
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Wait, so you still had some resistance while turning the motor over? There really should be little to no resistance dude. Either way, bout time you finally get this thing up and running.
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Yeah my car runs great. I'm just trying to get vid camara that works so I can do some ripper vids. Maybe today, I'll have a vid. depends on how many police officers are out today.
Last night every officer for city, county and state were out. They do this one weekend a month to bust people for tail lights, seat belts, speeding, exp. tags, etc.
So I'm hoping there will be less activity today.
I'm starting to chip a few peoples' ecus around here since no one has a clue. ;D
I did a base map for a GSR using a P28 and nailed the middle of the green lights on this guys A/F ratio gauge.
And he owns a dealership that sells a lot of used honda/acura models and wants me to burn some base maps for his engine swaps and F.I. setups. ;D
So thanks to all who have posted good quality tech for me to learn from.
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Alright I had tear down my engine due to a noisy rod bearing.
Took the head off and pulled the pistons and realize that the rod #4 top ring was not gapped enough stared scratching the cylinder wall.
Rod bearing #4 look like shit again.
Measured the crank main and rod journal and they all checked out.
I check my TT rods and #4 was a little out of round so scored a set of used Eagle rods for $90. ;D
Checked the Eagles rods and they checked out.
Installed the Eagle rods, king bearings, and new rings (gapped 0.018" top and 0.020" second) tonight.
Kept hand cranking the engine to see if there was any excessive resistance.
Bolt the main girdle snug with main bolts and the resistance was a little more than before bolting the main on.
Then I torqued the mains to 40 ft-lbs (not the final setting)
After all that, I hand cranked the short block and now I can not crank the engine by hand.
I was all discouraged and realize I may have to grind the girdle because I'm using Eagle rods and not TT rods.
Damn you Eagle rods !!!!!
So tomorrow I'll check the the rod clearance with girdle and if that doesn't work I have that damn block out and start from scratch.
The stuff I have planned this month:
Dual Core radiator
Fuel pressure w/ electric sender
Log mani with a flange for the He351ve and 50mm wg.
3" Exhaust
3" Intercooler piping
25"x12"x3" Intercooler
Dual intank CDM walbaros
1/2" fuel line
New manifolds for my SC14 supercharger
Fabbing a s/c bypass to run the air around the s/c when the a/c clutch is disengaged using h23 IAB parts, a purge valve, and a full throttle switch.
Mounting both of my 1g dsm BOV before the intercooler
SS brake lines
MSD fuel pump voltage booster
AVC-R boost controller
Crower valve springs with Ti retainers
Order a He351ve from JD or egay. ;D
Yeah I'll be busy this month I'll post tons of pict.
Already uploaded picts on Photobucket.
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Yeah I'll be busy this month I'll post tons of pict.
That's what I was about to say. If you do all that in one month, you'll be fucking busy!
Since things never fit on the first try, I say you'll finish in 2 months ;)
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Yeah I'll be busy this month I'll post tons of pict.
That's what I was about to say. If you do all that in one month, you'll be fucking busy!
Since things never fit on the first try, I say you'll finish in 2 months ;)
Yeah I'm saving the turbo part for last just in case I fall behind schedule I can at least make the RHMT meet 5-15.
The rest of the stuff I got my motivation back and using at least 3hrs./day after work to get this done.
I have a couple of people at work who can help with welding, and fab. work.
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So no vice grips holding the dizzy on this year? .......lol
Hope you figure out why its hard to turn over. Did you plastigauge (spell check here) your bearings to see if everything was good? Im in for the updates! Get er done!
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So no vice grips holding the dizzy on this year? .......lol
Hope you figure out why its hard to turn over. Did you plastigauge (spell check here) your bearings to see if everything was good? Im in for the updates! Get er done!
Yeah all the bearing clearances checked out and this time the rings are gapped correctly.
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Did u use lube when putting together
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Did u use lube when putting together
Yeah lots of assembly lube. ;)
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Get that fucker running na for a minute to make sure itzas okay first with all the issues your havin man
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Get that fucker running na for a minute to make sure itzas okay first with all the issues your havin man
The engine usually runs NA until engage the clutch on the s/c.
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i dont see nay reason to bolt that clusterfuck monstrosity you have to the motor till you know the motor runs this time... LOL
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I agree, keep it na untill you have a few miles on the clock. I would also throw a stock tune, and stock injectors too, just to rule any of the bullshit out.
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I agree, keep it na untill you have a few miles on the clock. I would also throw a stock tune, and stock injectors too, just to rule any of the bullshit out.
I drove for 3 mo. on the 788cc inj. and 3-bar map.
I noticed my wb o2 would go to 22:1 when I was in boost at revs above 5k.
I realize I never replaced the fuel pump and it has 208k on it. ;D
I have two pumps coming. ;D
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I don't think you understand the concept of KISS.
Start as it if were stock, meaning stock injectors, stock intake and exhaust mani's, stock map sensor...be sure the motor runs perfectly before you do more shit to it. It makes troubleshooting so much easier.
I've never trusted plastigage, especially old plastigage.
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The excessive lack of updated pictures in this thread makes baby jesus cry
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The excessive lack of updated pictures in this thread makes baby jesus cry
I have more pictures in my Photo-fuck-it, but I was waiting to post them after I get my engine back together. ;D
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The excessive lack of updated pictures in this thread makes baby jesus cry
I have more pictures in my Photo-fuck-it, but I was waiting to post them after I get my engine back together. ;D
No do it NOW!!!
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Valvetrain Upgrade pictures.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0008.jpg%3Ft%3D1268194723&hash=4cc94403d70732fe6152d2d0d32ea1e70b1db46b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0009.jpg%3Ft%3D1268194867&hash=57a44d443928ecd10d4dfe59205f1cb791b3a850)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0014.jpg%3Ft%3D1268194902&hash=2f96ee53dc198ad30227f6bc4d46cda2f1f18ccd)
Crower springs and Ti retainers on the left stock on the right.
Random pictures of my z6 IM w/ 70mm tb and spacer.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0010.jpg%3Ft%3D1268194989&hash=ab8b528b6c00a4dda64448c762de9e834b23bbee)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0011.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195080&hash=177aef3d4b7311961cd95bf4f0db644047a46c88)
Engine Block picts.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0012.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195175&hash=14bfb7093abbcb361195224645e5a10f945b7f58)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0019.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195224&hash=2e74c0e38a963022a921172bc63483e5cf17cdc5)
Supercharger awaiting some new manifolds to be fabbed up. ;D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0013.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195321&hash=9e169e627271dbbd62da4646fda227812be2292c)
My man cave / garage pictures
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0015.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195375&hash=1dc25201b2c3cdd1f94a271e2bd485e31af79df4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0016.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195414&hash=2a400043c0579ea2845736359f761c261c26de99)
Intake ports (y8) after matching with z6 manifold before I installed the crower springs and Ti retainers.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0017.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195508&hash=4d24f00efe2f7eb3d944bcd3a8f836c4c4510e28)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0018.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195546&hash=ce56c7265e5a2bfc883f3995c1972654e0458b30)
B16 oil cooler/heater on my z6 block before I pulled the TT rods out.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_1718.jpg%3Ft%3D1268196538&hash=dc81966554f7a140dfad47cb7ae5ca9ec89b3f84)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_1718.jpg%3Ft%3D1268196538&hash=dc81966554f7a140dfad47cb7ae5ca9ec89b3f84)
This what pictures I have DL so far I'll take more. I pulled the block out and yanking the tranny out tomorrow so I can install the LSD when it shows up.
I'm also yanking the rack and pinion out since I'll have everything else out to replace the 18yr old tie rods (inner and outer) and install my prothane rack bushings. I'll take picts of the work tomorrow.
I'm also swapping my steering column for a tilt unit. I might take picts of that also.
I'm putting the block on the stand to figure out what is going on with the block.
I have to use a cheater bar to start cranking by hand.
Then once I get it moving I have no problems cranking by hand with a 3/8 snatch-it.
It almost feels like one of the mains is grabbing.
I'm remeasuring everything and if I have to I can use my back-up block.
It is already cleaned just needs a bore 0.5mm o/s , hone, decked 0.020" and a rod clearance grinding.
I can do all of the machining at work. ;D
I have a lot of motivation to get this beast back on the road. I'm spending 3-4hrs./work night and 12+hrs/on the weekend days.
I have to take some vacation time this month so I'll even have more time to spend.
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front page
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0015.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195375&hash=1dc25201b2c3cdd1f94a271e2bd485e31af79df4)
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THIS! NOW!
front page
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0015.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195375&hash=1dc25201b2c3cdd1f94a271e2bd485e31af79df4)
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Thats my organized day should see it when the wife starts throwing more things in there. ;D
Believe it or not I use the space to its full potential.
I work in there even when I only have a 2ft wide pathway. :yes:
That lappy has a fucked up screen so just use my old CRT with it.
If you look closely I have a cassette/record/tuner player under the laptop.
And a cassette adapter to plug into the earphone jack to my laptop or one of my mobile dvd players so I can turn up the sound going through my ghetto surround sound (6 speakers) going to only speaker jacks on the back of the stereo.
I still listen to records. ;D
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whats with the butter
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whats with the butter
he needs his calcium!
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whats with the butter
he needs his calcium!
LOL
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whats with the butter
I use the empty containers for catching oil, to hold some for dipping parts like bearings, pistons w/ ring just before putting them in the engine. ;D
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Holy white trash clusterfuck batman... HAHAHAHAHHHA.... I dont know what to say about your organizational skills son, althiough i guess the brief gander at the civics engine bay should have been a hint..
LOL...
AWESOME!
Carry on sir
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fucking win
THIS! NOW!
front page
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0015.jpg%3Ft%3D1268195375&hash=1dc25201b2c3cdd1f94a271e2bd485e31af79df4)
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I can agree with that. We should do a monthly front page update to be voted on the last week of every month.
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Guess my bathroom looks classy compared to that garage. Perfect :yes:
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Yeah complimented by patch of floor dry. :yes:
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg705.imageshack.us%2Fimg705%2F598%2Frhmtmotivationalposterg.jpg&hash=b40f9dc4b248574bd38fe5929bffcbe7f92efcb1)
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That is awesome I want that on a shirt. ;D
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Well figured out the issue a corner of a rod bearing was pinched some how and was dragging between crank counter weight and rod.
I filed the pinched part of and assembled the bottom end and now everything moves easily. ;D
Pulling the transmission out today installing the obx LSD I got from magik123. This LSD has already been fixed with new bevel washers.
I'll take pictures of the install of the LSD and maybe if I have time I'll install the trans. and engine today if not for sure tomorrow.
With more pictures. ;D
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Well I ran into a little snag my input shat bearing in both trans. are crap.
So I'm in need of a ISB and seal. I looked for about 2hrs. before I found the correct p/n to cross and order.
P/N 91002-PS0-003, 26X58X15, BCA * 102CC, DYP * 102SS for future reference.
Here some more pictures:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0029.jpg%3Ft%3D1268627625&hash=0af412e93dbb02b70211fb1c7016f18e206efb1b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0030.jpg%3Ft%3D1268627910&hash=53522fa6ce07d0ed9c6157bb63a1a91716108399)
before pictures of the rack parts beeing repaired.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0031.jpg%3Ft%3D1268628628&hash=785030c6bb2a163b9129f5de34801c93f7e6a024)
Here is a picture of a swap I saw at my local Hondaphile's shop.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0032.jpg%3Ft%3D1268628912&hash=3053b383fde02b20ac5111aaf73d1ddf79cbe893)
Ok some trans. pictures.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0033.jpg%3Ft%3D1268629153&hash=5ee9a52645d0199a55b0e88fba5069a2e714ff7f)
tearing out the stock differential.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0034.jpg%3Ft%3D1268629291&hash=d4965d9d07a6200d61f26e97f09f2bf2e70b75c5)
Oh shit I ran into a SNAFU I got to hunt down a bearing and a seal.
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that jswap doesnt even have the drivers side mount..
Have you decided what your going to do with the manifolds/piping from the SC.
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that jswap doesnt even have the drivers side mount..
Have you decided what your going to do with the manifolds/piping from the SC.
My original set-up was to restrictive and it had the edelbrock intercooler going too far to the passenger side and I had to cut a hole in the bumper to clear the bend.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi64.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fh193%2Fd112crzy%2FRHMTDynomeet041.jpg&hash=4f197e7b4eef11253a358a8d1d80b943d6fb26e7)
So have 3" piping from the s/c to a 25"x12"x3" w/ 3" in/out.
I have not finish mocking the piping up yet because I awaiting on some parts to put my transmisson back to gether with the LSD.
And I need to finish getting the engine back together today or tomorrow. I'll have pictures this week. I work on my project 2-3 hrs. after work every day to get this done.
As for the J-swap the driverside mount is down low using angle iron Ill post some more if I can get some more pictures.
My buddy was driving it around town today for a little shakedown.
The semi-auto transmission works perfect. :yes:
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here is some more picts.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0038.jpg%3Ft%3D1268796571&hash=81659a81227e521deefbf955038fa48fc68943f2) a
Great shot shot of my 70mm TB, spacer, z6 IM, and 3-bar map sensor in a stock sensor case.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0037.jpg%3Ft%3D1268796846&hash=f5ea0ce7ed11ca6e63a9f83d3c8cbef49ff22ef4)
The completed engine y8 head on z6 block and if you look closely you will see a egay fuel pressure gauge sender.
Now I can keep my fuel pressure in check and without doubt.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0035.jpg%3Ft%3D1268797099&hash=5ac214d3bee23441cc6b350e23cd36ad8db6c4e3)
Comparison shot of a carbon build up on the right and brass wire brush combustion chamber on the left.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0036.jpg%3Ft%3D1268797228&hash=c0a05bd0b46ad548812d6f68c9499250bd5b490d)
carbon build up removed.
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this car is 75 lbs of shit in a 3 lb bag riddled with aids and anus juices. very much something we were seeing bck in the og dayz. gangsta
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this car is 75 lbs of shit in a 3 lb bag riddled with aids and anus juices. very much something we were seeing bck in the og dayz. gangsta
wait until I cram the turbo in on top the s/c. ;D
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Ok I got the trans. done w/ LSD had to get a new ISB and seals for this trans.
But First this transmission rebuild and LSD install is brought to you by Captain and Coke
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0044.jpg%3Ft%3D1268967065&hash=ff71cde73498c2d49f1a753df048bc2c7699924d)
Trans. assembling in the kitchen for better lighting and warmth.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0043.jpg%3Ft%3D1268967232&hash=d6005c6688a74888b42bdf9ecd1d2e1b777725ad)
After installed the new ISB and seal
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0041.jpg%3Ft%3D1268967311&hash=eb371deb696de2e2ae722866bb8340b1cd63446c)
New output seals
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0042.jpg%3Ft%3D1268967372&hash=8b170f42599a11d7cc48298961ac25b138d55ddb)
Just before closing
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0045.jpg%3Ft%3D1268968062&hash=56a7fd43fc134c4017925b332bc69df67cc9148f)
This weekend transmission, clutch and engine assembled possible installed in the car. We'll see. ;D
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niggere parrot bay is for coochies
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Too much sealant
ISB in backwards
CSB not staked
Do over!
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Too much sealant
ISB in backwards
CSB not staked
Do over!
Damn
Thanks Bone I'll pull it apart again after work.
Part of the reason I posted those picts because I knew you set me straight. ;D
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Too much sealant
ISB in backwards
CSB not staked
Do over!
He knows his shit. Dont end up like me and rebuild a transmission 4 times before finally trashing it all together :?:
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FbadgoodISB.jpg&hash=df34e0b37cebf5b784dea0bea17df5be9680581d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FNick-James%2520FSP%2FP9050014.jpg&hash=9cf93def0661397d9ee0f5fc6103a64acb406611)
I've no image sowing how much sealant I use, but less than 1/2 of what you used.
Was the old ISB exploded??? If so did you strip the shafts and clean them out???? If not little pieces of ISB cage and excess sealant will block the oiling ports....not good!
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I'm disassembling the trans. tonight and I'll fix everything.
I wiped down everything in side the casing and clutch housing I did not see any pieces of bearing cage, so I think I got it all out but I'll double check. ;)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FChad%2520A6%2FP2160008.jpg&hash=bc5c6eb55e586d2c568b664fcaca3a5bc3d47046)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FChad%2520A6%2FP2160009.jpg&hash=d6f9b07795cbb43b9f8519e68689b350ab079986)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FChad%2520A6%2FP2160011.jpg&hash=ac5fb9fd3b74bf22c5c87308bbf78c42a22c4b37)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FChad%2520A6%2FP2160013.jpg&hash=27344fb72df0d4a56324f05bcd03f2a40a2260f8)
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I did what Mista Bones said to do.
I reinstalled the ISB in the correct position.
I staked the CSB after flushing out all the nylon bearing cage pieces trapped under the plastic under the CSB.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0046.jpg%3Ft%3D1269310042&hash=26024ac9762b3ba8cfb4aa459c60fcb8d939dd2b)
Then I stripped the shafts and cleaned all the oil passages. (there was a lot of nylon bearing cages pieces in those passages)
Then I put everything back together, I laid a smaller bead of silicone on the clutch housing, then I proceed to put the transmission casing back on.
I get within 1/8" of the snap ring seating in the groove of the ball bearing assembly on top of the CS with ring going around the bearing.
Then I use the casing to clutch housing bolts to pull the casing done to seat the snap ring in the groove and the bolts are almost seated.
I hear a sharp snap and decided to pull the casing back off and find this:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0049.jpg%3Ft%3D1269310157&hash=c853ea91a7f8d986b9f04bfeb5e915101e14dba8)
Part of the outer race is broke off. :'(
So I have another bearing to be here tomorrow and try this all over again.
I was wondering do I have to have the transmission in any particular gear?
I did not see anything about needing it in neutral when getting the casing back on.
Any more tips out there guys before I do this again tomorrow?
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The EXACT same thing happened to me the first time around. however I went driving with it like that :-X
Best thing you can do if KEEP AN EYE ON THE SNAP RING and make sure its as open as fucking possible during the entire process. Then use a rubber mallet to seat the case.
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Shitty man. On the bright side you can wipe all that blue silicone off and put a thin layer of the grey rtv on. I only run the grey when I put them back together, I also use the snap ring plyers and a rubber hammer to put my case's back together.
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Shitty man. On the bright side you can wipe all that blue silicone off and put a thin layer of the grey rtv on. I only run the grey when I put them back together, I also use the snap ring plyers and a rubber hammer to put my case's back together.
I did use use a snap ring pliers and and rubber mallet. This evening I saw a possible reason for the issue a rather large burr above the ring keeping the bearing from seating into the casing completely.
I ordered a replacement snap rings and the bearing I broke. Should be here tomorrow.
I used gray silicone before. But I was using way too much and I ran out so just grabbed my blue shit.
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just so you feel less stupid, I did the same thing. Just got anxious-- they take a good bit of finaggling too get them to pop in all the way. Don't tighten bolts down until that thing is fully seated
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NEVER pull the case down, now you see why.
You failed to fully expand the lock ring.
Have fun getting the old one out and new on in.
With snap ring expanded and case slid on there should be a .008-.010" gap between the cases.
BTW, Sunday night, I reaffirmed I am indeed a tranny master. Three people couldn't get the ITR tranny back together, it had suffered a 4th gear explosion. All ratios and tooth counts checked out. Both ITR and GSR mainshaft 5th gears are 33 teeth, but different OD. The difference in diamter was pushing the shafts apart not allowing the case to drop over the bearings.
Swap the 5th gear, 1/2 way into third gear, case dropped right on.
I only know this as you can get 30 tooth SOHC gears mixed up......and did at one time :)
Basically every failure I've seen......by many different people......I made them all myself!!!!!!
Last night was perfect sailing either. Mainshaft outer bearing got stuck in the case. Used the old mainshaft to wiggle it out (no shop heater) and finally worked it out of the case without the bearing coming apart. Until we tried to remove it from the old shaft. Once all 12 balls were located it took me only two tries to pop it all back together.
Just serving another SCCA/NASA customer, $60 for 3 hours work and "cold" pass for a big race at Mid Ohio this year.
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Thanks guy I'll keep these suggestions in mind and remember patience tonight when I reassemble the transmission. ;D
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Got the new bearing on and file down the burr in the area just above the snap ring.
The transmission is now back together.
Tomorrow I'll make two wiring harnesses into one.
Tired of having a cut and pasted engine wiring harness.
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I went to look at my wiring harness situation and realize I would have to repin about 3 or 4 sensor connectors.
Or I could cut my h23 harness (perfect condition) or my old d15b8 harness. I decided neither.
I'll visit my local Hondaphile and see if he has a spare v-tec harness w/ map on it and not the 4dr with map on the firewall.
Do this today.
Since I was not working on wiring last night I decided to look at the transmission.
grabbed the input shaft to see how smooth the differential moves and the whole shaft is stuck solid no movement.
So I take it back to the kitchen counter and take the casing off and everything moves freely.
Put the casing back on w/o bolts and still moves freely.
Put two bolts in position #1 and #2 (from transmission service manual) and tighten down to within about 0.010" casing to clutch housing.(Snap ring seated in the grove of the bearing) and the shaft can not move freely. :?:
So called around and heard on too possibilities:
1. differential not sitting all the way in.
2. the differential may need some clearance from the inside ribs of the casing.
Well I checked the differential to seat of the clutch housing clearance and no issues.
I put a straight edge on top of the differential.
Found a gap of about 0.020" from straight edge to clutch housing surface.
Looking at the casing I saw no indication of rubbing on the reinforcement ribs contacting differential.
I'll borrow some machinist die at lunch and see for sure.
If anybody else has any ideas I'd much appreciated it.
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Shimming......and pics.
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Shimming......and pics.
pulled the shim and use machinist dye and could not find any contact.
I looked through the clutch housing where the LSD and bearing has seat and the bearing is seated where it needs to be.
I'll post picture tonight.
I'm taking it over to my local hondaphile aka twisted image on high altitude and h-t.
Maybe I'll sneek in some more pictures of his j-swap and rhd hb (love that car). ;D
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I decided to take the whole thing apart.
I found a little running on the casing around the differential bearing flange/reinforcement.
I filed the surrounding area flat and forgot to bring the machinist dye back home with me.
I read some where that the OBX LSD is not suppose to make noise in the car.
But is it allowed to make noise if have the differential in you hand and shake it a little? :?:
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0057.jpg%3Ft%3D1269573958&hash=2533f0b75e776102c6d0db55fc59da961be3342a)
clutch housing before differential installed.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0055.jpg%3Ft%3D1269574029&hash=683adad9ead0daae94a4e319e9849db9c2cf1c80)
Machinist dye on strategic areas to look for interference issues.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0054.jpg%3Ft%3D1269574136&hash=076f6f358c284206bb40900c72b8e1c14d609170)
A shot of the assembly before another attempt at closing it up.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0053.jpg%3Ft%3D1269574281&hash=7373e39e690b99dfa00178329004236384557f6c)
A shot of the old snap ring and it did not look right so I replaced it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0058.jpg%3Ft%3D1269574376&hash=87680dbc0e258efc1d5937d36aab4ae3622d2d0a)
The old snap ring took me about 10 min to pull it out and 30 sec. to put in the new one.
Was not too hard to do.
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Black marker works as a cheap dye.
But also knowing to grind down the bolt heads on the OBX before pressing on the bearing helps.
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You really should only use hondabond on the case.
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I don't, Permatex Ultra Gray
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Black marker works as a cheap dye.
But also knowing to grind down the bolt heads on the OBX before pressing on the bearing helps.
Bolts were already ground on when magik123 had it in his transmission.
You really should only use hondabond on the case.
My local Hondaphile uses permatex gray.
We found that the shaft that has shift forks, closest to the differential, keeps jamming in the casing.
So we are looking at my spare casing if it would work better.
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I finally got my trans. figured out something stupid lucky I had spare parts. ;D
Installed side mirror so I can have regular working mirrors again.
Installed one of my fuel pumps will do a custom hanger for two pumps later when I'm not pressed for time.
I wired in my MSD 2351 boost a pump.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0059.jpg%3Ft%3D1269979013&hash=fb7ccf33e27ed70935cff170304feeec30b95729)
Basic Instructions
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0060.jpg%3Ft%3D1269979055&hash=baf46831a918800d3aa59674533061f8df86f4a7)
Feeding the wires through the firewall.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0061.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983087&hash=85596e148eeba2f597468a3b706c3d30933b3a5e)
Under dash shot.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0062.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983138&hash=81b2cc898047b80688175099a1a4185edbd2ebc4)
feeding the wires to the center console
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0063.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983203&hash=062b4f10d8cc08714ac5e222cd208bdf0e77d47f)
Through the center near the shifter.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0064.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983264&hash=25f6b20f280df94bf57c88ad01332a75e1b807e6)
Wires going by the E-brake. The final placement of the wires are to the side away from any moving parts of the E-brake.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0066.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983382&hash=afff85bfb6a3a24056cbb349bd5dea5318ad5fdc)
Pulling the wires under the carpet all the way to fuel wiring connection. Not the easiest thing. Yes I vacuumed the crap trapped under the seat cushion. ;D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0071.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983615&hash=15456a17998de6c8ae426dce8d9db55898224d21)
Cut the yellow w/ green stripe wire.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0072.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983683&hash=85efbfdd1444dc9070629edd387a5eccba10d6f1)
Solder the thick red wire to the wire closest to the pump. Solder orange wire to the remaining wire.
The red wire is 12ga. and is getting the source voltage from the MSD boost-a-pump.
The orange wire is 18ga. is getting the voltage from oem voltage source, main relay.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0073.jpg%3Ft%3D1269983949&hash=7c8fa73f95938cefc8628e99f560b67af73fc47f)
Shrink wrap the wires is best. But I ran out of shrink wrap so I used electric tape. Used the plastic conduit from under the seat all the way through the firewall. The plastic supplied from MSD works great I even got the the claps with the kit.
I cut about 10ft or more out the wiring was long enough for RVs.
That is all I have loaded on the camera. I'll post more pictures tonight. I working on the V-afc and AFC-R to a tuner harness.
So I can take these out if some thing happens.
I am using the Vafc as a tach, v-tec engagement, map signal voltage display only.
The AFC-R is for my future boost controller for my He351ve holset.
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damn im late didnt see the updates in here, yeah the diff made some noise when shaken out of the trans.. never heard anything abnormal when driving with it. Like I said i think i shimmed it with a b18 piston ring to get the correct endplay, Bone may not approve lol. I def did not have to grind down housing/webs just could not get the correct endplay even with the smallest honda shim in my trans casing. Everything is cool now tho?
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damn im late didnt see the updates in here, yeah the diff made some noise when shaken out of the trans.. never heard anything abnormal when driving with it. Like I said i think i shimmed it with a b18 piston ring to get the correct endplay, Bone may not approve lol. I def did not have to grind down housing/webs just could not get the correct endplay even with the smallest honda shim in my trans casing. Everything is cool now tho?
Yeah everything is cool I had a shift fork and sincro sticking causing the shaft for the mainshaft forks to sit higher than they should.
Replace the sincro and selector and now everything is golden. ;D
I used a thin b18 oil ring for a shim and it was perfect. :yes:
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Here is my first attempt at using MS paint to illustrate my planned setup.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FTwinchargeD16z6_y8.png%3Ft%3D1270590944&hash=321784fcf2e780c01f1c96715c039e377f0bcf8f)
I run my the He351ve=>SC14=>intercooler=>70mm tb=>z6 IM=>y8 head
I have 2 1g DSM BOVs before tb recirculate to turbo inlet. After I put the engine and transmission this weekend I'll show how easy it was to put everything together. ;D
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Hotness. Just curious, what does that MSD box do for your fuel pump. Sorry, to lazy to search
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Over-volts it. Moar power moar fuels.
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Over-volts it. Moar power moar fuels.
Digitally using my lappy to program the ramp-up fuel pump voltage linearly related the boost. ;D
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One of my Idea Charts I usually have more info in my charts than this.
This chart was my first attempt at recreating what I just do on Engineerin Comp. Paper.
I get this info. from published info., Turbo calculators, and equations I use from Superchared!! (by Corky Bell) and my Fluid Dynamics I and II text book (for the mass flow equations)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FPressureRatiovsRPMSChart.png%3Ft%3D1270670819&hash=ae7ff2b8757249a5f60214e22405b891644867f7)
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with a EX tranny that the MPG tuning to atleast 3200 rpms, maybe 3500 under light throttle, about 10" of vacuum
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with a EX tranny that the MPG tuning to atleast 3200 rpms, maybe 3500 under light throttle, about 10" of vacuum
That was originally done with a CX transmission and 35mm Lsd back in '05 b/c that was all I had at the time. ;D
I'll post an updated one with EX gearing. ;D
But thanks for noticing. :yes:
BTW thanks for the posted info. on d-series transmissions on D-series.com and in this site.
It really helped. :yes: ;D ;D
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimage-bb.com%2Fout.php%2Fi296_830Teachers1984.jpg&hash=0aaf7777312aaa13be96f3f2e27d1a070850d1e1)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimage-bb.com%2Fout.php%2Fi296_830Teachers1984.jpg&hash=0aaf7777312aaa13be96f3f2e27d1a070850d1e1)
LOL
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Ok I have the engine and transmission back in. Taking my time as to rush and forget something else. :)
Motor and transmission installed.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0083.jpg%3Ft%3D1271485872&hash=761cafcae0ecfb0ff031dddfa85867197566e769)
Shots of my Idea graph/chart when I had plans using a TS04
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0082.jpg%3Ft%3D1271488451&hash=dca65ea2824a8de87882d4f33159ecd067c57d83)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0081.jpg%3Ft%3D1271486014&hash=7cf6152edb0c0da2c618fed69a2c18bf91174723)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0080.jpg%3Ft%3D1271486076&hash=095e467a0f7339983b71ae4c2ef74925437b17e8)
Now a Quick how-to roll a bead on inter-cooler piping.
Tool of choice a fencing pliers/cutter
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0085.jpg%3Ft%3D1271486164&hash=0371e9b95fedebaf532174f6d888698f28b651b2)
Have the pipe edge sitting flush with the back of the jaws of the pliers.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0086.jpg%3Ft%3D1271486551&hash=69f25a5c0511447b40d3229dd85a01b4242a748a)
Squeeze until the jaws completely meet the surface of the pipe.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0087.jpg%3Ft%3D1271486742&hash=c77f2bd3100f44f374cc75f3805c1d4e74a699a5)
Twist the pipe a little and repeat.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0088.jpg%3Ft%3D1271486807&hash=2d1094ab7f2327eb36effd458f89e14b1da50060)
Repeat the whole thing until you get a nice smooth bead along the edge of the pipe.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0089.jpg%3Ft%3D1271486901&hash=f82c74d11d28312893819232bdae5185bc9fc286)
What a completed bead looks like.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0090.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487028&hash=3ed2200019c93162f932444ed9c818f41a3703bd)
Now on to what is planned to be installed soon.
My log mani kit I bought from Weir including a flange for a He351ve.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0093.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487170&hash=9be40ae0aac7614ded5ee236f5a798cc54a62a6e)
50mm WG
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0092.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487255&hash=bd41db059bf856f518da42552350fa400eb74113)
Parts for my Rock Star oil catch can, not pictured is my industrial size tubes of JB Weld. ;D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0091.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487294&hash=5345eb6c56ffde299bd1db81a2440bf25e3efadc)
New Inter-cooler 25"x12"x3" w/ 3" inlet and outlet.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0095.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487417&hash=1a1f0db268ba8237e8a4c8313c8b052243b49451)
Another shot of my Boost-a-pump mounted on the passenger strut tower.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0084.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487509&hash=d8e4d137638d809b3caac20d29a38919ee43cd9e)
Some shots of cars at my local Hondaphiles shop
Interior of my RHD EG HB ;D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0079-1.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487583&hash=e56a96abf086c4772a41f20f641c2298bddbd3a5)
Engine bay shot. There was a complete CTR swap in there but it was sold and installed in a coupe that I will be tuning soon.
This car was sold out of state and I will miss that car. This was the closes to new EG I'll ever see. My buddy had cut out the firewall and weld the RHD conversion.
He repainted it, undercoated it. Had all the suspension powder coated bronze.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0078-1.jpg%3Ft%3D1271487794&hash=b47b8c880b724de4c3b55af32883119f76bd15c9)
Some more V-6 Civic
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0077-1.jpg%3Ft%3D1271488056&hash=77ead2e8f742c46b254a5976b789b8e7d9823cee)
Notice the angle iron used as the 3rd engine mount.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0076-1.jpg%3Ft%3D1271488074&hash=2b58ee1a21d4ff14979e04d89cf98605cf2739fc)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0076-1.jpg%3Ft%3D1271488130&hash=87e017fdf6e1bd32d79dc6097cfe8232829c4ade)
Should have my car running this weekend.
Tomorrow I'll post pictures of the supercharger install w/ the old inlet and outlet manifolds. The new ones will not be done until later next week.
The inter-cooler piping will be painted flat black with possible RHMT on the there too.
We'll see. ;D
Bonus Shot of My Man Cave
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0094.jpg%3Ft%3D1271488572&hash=e55c98e044ae5912374c898dffb0a0db3684468e)
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I love pic's!
This thread is FI mod approved :yes:
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Fuck, I dont know how you do it. I couldn't work in that garage. Still, progress is bitchen. I can't wait to see this whore on the dyno.
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props home boy :)
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Went home for lunch today and started my car up. :yes: ;D
Check for leaks and waited until cooling fan came on twice and still no leaks.
Then turned it off.
I will install the s/c on with a the piping and intercooler tonight.
Take some picts of the process.
Go do some rippers tonight and or tomorrow.
Post said ripper vids.
Take the bumper back off and get the new inlet and outlet manifold to s/c done. bolt it all back up.
Street tune.
Then if I can get the a He351ve for cheap I'll get that all on before PNW RHMT Fluffy Crew Dyno Day, 5-15-10 for some crazy pulls.
If not I think still have some nice numbers from just the s/c on the setup. ;D
If anybody can spare a He351 for uber cheap or trade. LMK
I am trying not spend much more until D-day because I want to make sure I can make it up and back.
Stay Tuned :?: ;D
Oh I just realize if you look at the last picture of my garage you will see a box of Industrial sized tubes of JB weld. ;D
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Oh I just realize if you look at the last picture of my garage you will see a box of Industrial sized tubes of JB weld. ;D
Harder to find then waldo
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Oh I just realize if you look at the last picture of my garage you will see a box of Industrial sized tubes of JB weld. ;D
Harder to find then waldo
LOL look at he lower left hand quadrant of the picture. The box is sitting on top a tool box.
;D
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Change off plans I'll get the new inlet and outlet manifolds for the s/c done first.
I could not get old stuff back together w/o losing my temper.
So I'm taking this time to get my interior back together except the stereo.
Also get my toe adjustments done b/c I changed out all my tie rods. ;D
I was going to post a vid of my car running but the LCD screen on my camera is not working.
So I can not get the video recorder to work properly. :?:
I just have everything fabbed up by this weekend. :yes:
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fail
on the promised vid, not the project. host elsewhere than photobucket, too please!!
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I had a little set back (I hope), I had a tapping sound down low. :?:
I'm taking the oil pan off and check it out today. :-\
I hope it was as simple as not tightening a rod and all I need is rod bearing.
I have extras. :yes:
But if I have to take the damn block back out then I will not be able to get it back in time for D-day.
I'll have to drive my back-up stocker Dx Hb instead.
I'll keep my fingers crossed. ;D
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WTF??? Are you in Wyoming? Are you on HAI? The RHD was Chad's, right? And the V6 sedan is too. Crazy.
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WTF??? Are you in Wyoming? Are you on HAI? The RHD was Chad's, right? And the V6 sedan is too. Crazy.
Yeah Chad aka Twisted Image
We are both in Casper
I only visit HAI site every once in a while. ;D
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Ok the SNAFU I had was actually not clearancing the main girdle for the Eagle rods and a bad crank.
On the engine stand there seams to be just enough room and I can hand crank w/o any interference.
Once the engine is warmed up and with some load, rod #4 carved a nice groove in the main girdle of about 1/16" deep.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0101.jpg%3Ft%3D1272250636&hash=be461ca5970e0fc659bcb964a71b57c50a5d544b)
And I saw a little metal flakes stuck to the main bearings.
So I'm yanking the motor back out.
Switch the crank an install all new bearings and new head gasket.
A new clutch while I'm at it.
Hope to have all this done by Fri.
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justr give up dude,
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justr give up dude,
I never give up. ;D
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justr give up dude,
x2. let someone else build your motor. You fucking blow at it dude.
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justr give up dude,
x2. let someone else build your motor. You fucking blow at it dude.
No I always build my motors this motor is only fail I ever had.
I have built 2tc, 350s, 302, and 4afe w/ success.
This motor has just been teaching me about patience and not getting in a hurry.
I already have the block stripped and crank out.
Have another crank, bearings, head gasket, and a new clutch going this week.
Double checking all my clearances and have this back in the car by this weekend.
Then finish up with S/C manifolds. ;D
I come home for lunch on work this.
Then I come home and work on my car from 4:30 'til 10 pm every week night.
I refuse to give up. ;D
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Alright got everything back together working with the old piping, inlet and outlet s/c manifolds, and running.
Drove it on the homemade car dolley and drove to Spokane.
Started it up in Spokane to show my brother in-law and notice I was not building boost.
Look at the piping everything was tight.
Then I notice that I did not completely bolt on my outlet manifold for the s/c fixed that quickly.
Got to Lynnwood stayed at the Comfort Inn the first night.
Got visited by BDVT and JD with a cop knock at the door.
I answered and instantly knew that my night was about to a comedic turn. ;D
Then Josh Ross and Randy showed up. We started talking and BDVT got that " I got to take big shit" look on his face.
Should have told him to take it somewhere else. Bathroom still stank with the fan on all night. :?:
More happened that night but since no pictures or videos were taken it didn't happen. ;D
Started my morning w/ watching Monaco GP Qualifying. :noel: (always a great way to start my day :yes:)
Then called JD to make arrangements to tune my car and meet him at BDVT's house.
I drive over there not knowing which was what in the cud-sac.
I went to the wrong house and figured I can just back up a little to make turn to correct.
and then:
OOPS
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0127.jpg%3Ft%3D1274209724&hash=0de043371d9b995f7692a022c4fc7142f8d82895)
Jack knifed the trailer. I had undid the straps so I could get the ramps under and drive the car off.
But the pivot table on my trailer was jammed and I could not get the ramps on because of position.
So I thought I can straighten it out w/o strapping the car back to the trailer.
Bad Idea
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0128.jpg%3Ft%3D1274209987&hash=011104a119b58ceabe3a45b73102a8914b1dcceb)
The car came half off. So I had to jack the passenger side up so we could push my car back on the trailer.
After I got the car down of the trailer safely. We started tuning the car.
We went out to do some street tuning with a Shadow as a "shadow" or as back-up if anything goes wrong.
We were almost done with the N/A part of street tuning when we here a familiar rod knocking sound.
Found a gas station and shut everything down. Pulled the v-tec solenoid found metal shaving in the screen.
In hindsight I later realize I did not clean that area that last time I had the head off.
We left JD in my car so he could disconnect all his stuff off while we went to get the trailer.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg21.imageshack.us%2Fimg21%2F7591%2Fsam0246l.th.jpg&hash=05aef55282ca203e0714adfd0aff830bbe2437b8)
We think it was oil pump since I changed everything else but that on the last tear down.
Then we trailered the car to the dyno and watched everybody else get there car tuned or dynod.
Drank beers took lots of pictures and some vids.
The best damn visit to the PNW I have had so far. Next year will be better.
Drove back Sun. to Spokane. Slept for 5 hrs.
Then drove back to Casper Wyoming. Drove my car off the trailer the knock was not audible.
So may just drop the oil pan and check on the bearings and change the oil pump.
I'm getting a pro built bottom end from Ross when I get around to talking to him about arrangements.
Jeff and Ross would like me to show up to the next Event w/o a failure next year. ;D
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Jackknife pics need to go in the dyno thread NAO
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Jackknife pics need to go in the dyno thread NAO
I might do that if you ask nicely. ;D
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NOT NOW BUT RIGHT FUCKING NAO...
LOL..
The Grin you had on your face during the freeway rapage in the slut was priceless.
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This post is full of win :noel:
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Let me know when russ, Lets get a mean motor in that thing.
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lmk if you want the autorotor SC , I am gonna shelf the idea and will sell it dirty jesus cheap
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lmk if you want the autorotor SC , I am gonna shelf the idea and will sell it dirty jesus cheap
Only if it is bigger than my SC14 (84cid/rev).
I'll keep it in mind for future project ideas since it is a screw type.
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So I was cleaning out my old engines and metal scrap from my garage.
And thought I share what happens when you supercharge a high mileage d16z6 w/ a VAFC using 450cc DSM inj.
And not have the capability to retard timing w/ boost.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0359.jpg%3Ft%3D1277353177&hash=060ad81625eeb4ef97a2a4f03558cfa4ecdfad33)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0360.jpg%3Ft%3D1277353176&hash=73e000810b393276842e5a0606316ea7145f6d89)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0362.jpg%3Ft%3D1277353176&hash=62634c26cc7ab752db0e1bbde4aa7e39fa74f4ed)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0361.jpg%3Ft%3D1277353176&hash=81ec849c482f737cc2949396e2f90e97153ef861)
I figured everybody like to see some engine carnage pictures.
I hope have another crank and oil pump in the car this weekend. ;D
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That's what you get for running needle dick rods.
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That's what you get for running needle dick rods.
Yeah I know but at the time I was just proving out the my homemade supercharge setup would work. I drove with engine boosted for 4mo.
So I got my money's worth. ;D
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can't wait for the new build
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Alright got another crank, it has been turned.
I'm using this crank in my setup as a low boost and for about 6mo. use until I get my full on engine done.
I'm sending a second block out to get a minty z6 crank, new oil pump, new rods, new pistons, and oil pan to Random Hero to do his magic.
Planning on porting and installing 0.5mm o/s valves in my z7 (3-stage vtec) head. Would like to send the head to Chris M but I will be short a little cash for that unless I wait until Jan. '11.
I'm too cheap and impatient. ;D :-\
I'm waiting on the o/s bearings for my crank to get here get my motor back to get and running so I can work out the Crome tuning until I either purchase EcTune or Neptune.
I'm leaning towards EcTune b/c of the magic I saw being done w/ JD and Sewell were doing at the dyno day event.
But I have some reservations about cost, and using an ostrich or demon.
Hopefully some somebody can get me a hook up on an ostrich or demon to help with the decision of using EcTune.
I would like to use an Ostrich because I will be tuning other cars beside my own.
But I want to use Crome Pro (which I do not have a copy yet) so I can tune the local Hondas with.
Most of these guys rarely will push past 12psi.
So I'll spending a lot of money in software (2 different ones), Lm-1, and Ostrich. :?:
Love to get some nog deals for some or all of this stuff. :'(
When I start the D16z6/z7 w/ vitaras Twincharge build I may just start another build thread we will see. ;D
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OK I have the shortblock in tonight with a low mileage oil pump and a recon crank.
All the bearing were on the tight side but I can crank the shortblock easily.
Putting a oil pressure gauge on this so I can keep watch of shit, plus I love gauges. ;D
Mounted the oil pressure supply line (mechanical oil pressure gauge) of the port on the oil pump right by the lower alt. mount.
I should still have room. :-\
All new gaskets and I took all my oil pan studs off my other blocks to have enough oil pan studs for my engine.
Tomorrow, for my b-day, I will pu the y8 head, wiring harness, modified v/c, and AEM wb o2 in.
I'll also post picks of my oil supply line, and my catch can I made with a Foster's Beer oil can.
I experimented w/ some devcon that comes in a tube instead of jb weld.
I jb weld looks better then devcon b/c it looks smoother. :-\
Before I post the catch can picts I'll paint the catch can black.
I'll probably have my beast running by next weekend. ;D
By running I mean not totally tuned since I have to redo the street tune in n/a then w/ boost.
Next couple of weeks I will be finishing up my s/c manifolds so they flow more efficiently.
I will have picts up as the I progress with this build.
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Pic's nog pic's!!
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Pic's nog pic's!!
I'll have them up tomorrow. ;D
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new day and no pics, FALE!
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new day and no pics, FALE!
Here is some pictures, I lost the camera to lappy cable yesterday (my b-day ;D).
But found the cable this evening. :?:
Please keep in mind I just shoot the pictures. I have no way of previewing the shots until I DL them on my computer
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0383.jpg%3Ft%3D1278561203&hash=8b10533b199347c9cace635e41b99f334b1e53ce)
This one, although fuzzy, is the location where I put the adapter for the oil line for the oil pressure gauge.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0382.jpg%3Ft%3D1278561203&hash=e881b1b63a504a540e0a4a33c60d402f98f63dc6)
Valve cover modified for a 1/2 nipple and 3/8" NPT. I just used a drill bit slightly larger than the original hole.
Then drill progressively larger holes until I reach the size I want.
Also if you look in the back ground, on the white-board, you can see the original idea for placement of the s/c, turbo, intercooler(s), and piping. Not a workable setup.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0381.jpg%3Ft%3D1278561203&hash=35c056746f4de0d85ab6d135b9fa9d1a84d8b8c2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0380.jpg%3Ft%3D1278561203&hash=0fb99c67954ccbe883e194fa317a40bcf8386a05)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0378.jpg%3Ft%3D1278561203&hash=6156da9b3a4e746187e9cca7910c94a111ab46eb)
These are attempted shots of the catch can I made using a Foster's oil can.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0379.jpg%3Ft%3D1278561203&hash=cb431e225b736fe3e78ee90d2017a018f88f0942)
This shot is of the top of the catch can where i just cut the opening on top just big enough to twist the breather filter on. ;D
I may just paint the can black except a small area to show off the brand of beer. ;D
And maybe even leave the chrome unpainted on top of the filter for Levi to have something shiny to stare at. ;D
That is it ATM I'll post more later.
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Well she runs in NA mode right now.
I try using the tune saved on a chip that JD did when he was working on my car @ the PNW rHMT Fluffy Crew Dyno Day.
But it would not run. So burned a copy of my base map (in Crome) and my car ran but rough.
So I looked at an example map similar to mine and taking consideration of the fuel pressure gauge, I adj. the injector size to @ 540cc instead of 788cc.
Started running better. Ran out of daylight to do more tuning. I'm using Crome 1.5.3 and a Burn2.
BTW the fuel pressure is at 30psi to 33psi., Oil pressure is @ 80psi @2.5k cold and 20psi @ idle warm.
So I believe this crank has a fighting chance now. ;D
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Well she runs in NA mode right now.
I try using the tune saved on a chip that JD did when he was working on my car @ the PNW rHMT Fluffy Crew Dyno Day.
But it would not run. So burned a copy of my base map (in Crome) and my car ran but rough.
So I looked at an example map similar to mine and taking consideration of the fuel pressure gauge, I adj. the injector size to @ 540cc instead of 788cc.
Started running better. Ran out of daylight to do more tuning. I'm using Crome 1.5.3 and a Burn2.
BTW the fuel pressure is at 30psi to 33psi., Oil pressure is @ 80psi @2.5k cold and 20psi @ idle warm.
So I believe this crank has a fighting chance now. ;D
About time, now boost her!
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Well she runs in NA mode right now.
I try using the tune saved on a chip that JD did when he was working on my car @ the PNW rHMT Fluffy Crew Dyno Day.
But it would not run. So burned a copy of my base map (in Crome) and my car ran but rough.
So I looked at an example map similar to mine and taking consideration of the fuel pressure gauge, I adj. the injector size to @ 540cc instead of 788cc.
Started running better. Ran out of daylight to do more tuning. I'm using Crome 1.5.3 and a Burn2.
BTW the fuel pressure is at 30psi to 33psi., Oil pressure is @ 80psi @2.5k cold and 20psi @ idle warm.
So I believe this crank has a fighting chance now. ;D
About time, now boost her!
I will put the S/C back on after some better NA tuning and I finish getting the better flowing inlet and outlet manifolds fabricated for the s/c.
Then if everything goes well He351ve turbo for the crazy time, she happens. ;D ;D ;D
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Fuck the SC.... Just put the Hole slut on it
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WTB: 10~ or so sohc crankshafts.
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WTB: 10~ or so sohc crankshafts.
Sure if they are cheap enough and not y7/y8 cranks. ;D
Fuck the SC.... Just put the Hole slut on it
I can not put the Holset on until a certain Grand wizard make arrangements to send/sale me his.
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who is this grand wizard and what hole slut do they have?
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who is this grand wizard and what hole slut do they have?
Secret ;D
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Since the reboot of this site we lost a lot of updates.
Including what was posted on my thread.
PNW Dyno Day Picts. '10 in no particular order.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0131.jpg&hash=df48e50d59832810388221a0205d1de8d92bb87e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0133.jpg&hash=e3fa234daf771bacebb2c8c7f30b6318ca59eeb0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0134.jpg&hash=87f1f13f75d3776862819cf876adaff23229fc3d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0136.jpg&hash=0d978e701df77bb4db01bbb937482920696dd5cc)
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[imghttp://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0140.jpg]http://[/img]
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0142.jpg&hash=04000ebe226831f91b0448d0ed13d8f1d3d4933f)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0144.jpg&hash=f285734650c902a04dba4d44225e90b5023e4fbb)
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My favorite build car there at the '10 Dyno day, 86-89 Accord w/ A20a3, K-series pistons, B18 h-beams rods, Skunkworks CTR/ITR intake and MS2. The kid is 17yrs. old and he did all of it himself.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0146.jpg&hash=9a96655673ce09723eb0b96a2d3c0d2f715e79c4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0147.jpg&hash=3ab62491347f2289e4e77fc5b545c91103d7769b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0148.jpg&hash=037bd062eb9f7eaf99310f133ee67ad0f113530c)
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Spiker his old Fluffy size and the Blackest Man on the West Coast (Leed)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0153.jpg&hash=1767a631cf90127ad3a4be97c0854568caaaea7a)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0154.jpg&hash=0b46080b5d98d851756b5efe5a7ee4a25902ef62)
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TurboHF
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0156.jpg&hash=2777b7e10a6a3fec2143bc7f661f3cea01bd6b0a)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0165.jpg&hash=7c6c237684d291454f47be2a6a9c2c84aa8a71fe)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0166.jpg&hash=29fbe609ef98da98acc633ec96cf66c94e1c0e21)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0169.jpg&hash=cabdabefa98629f2f54e431e173c889f2603086e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0170.jpg&hash=e7f5e468dfe9baa20833f8f54444996657946571)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0171.jpg&hash=61b1c68521e18b50f875975dba75949adec61f02)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0172.jpg&hash=8202979114b594566fe9666c19346c14262bc135)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0173.jpg&hash=67bd5c580de4db4415c30a305daef78122fd8a58)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0174.jpg&hash=5aefec42a8d1aa691b6d84e9e4b318b6f43a4ce6)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0175.jpg&hash=c9bf1acc8b7297907e128c53102d084f8bd14505)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0176.jpg&hash=610a3ca1cc18d7c32e4cc4301927af579550f4bc)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0177.jpg&hash=33ec5f0f09eebdafd94336852f7570965523ee90)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0178.jpg&hash=21da3687fd032a7e3a7d1797605e65980c369df6)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0180.jpg&hash=86b13a05a809da1831aa987f7fb2cdb4928642ae)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0181.jpg&hash=90f7afb12d76e60e4ad5e29e662ae32aca00d363)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0182.jpg&hash=322105085e2dc82ea2e18c98160b0c399f8d9e87)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0183.jpg&hash=496099bc551743dd900eb8f6f5c216e58d8f3143)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0190.jpg&hash=791b698a054656dc74a93dfe8ec572125affaf50)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0191.jpg&hash=9a0b1d1fad6a640645e8375560789cddc25cce69)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0205.jpg&hash=cc171a4c62ac84cece427e9337f7943167c488da)
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Ok after my failure at '10 Dyno day.
I originally was going to send my engine up to Random Hero and get a Pro built.
But I got encouraged by my local Hondaphile Twisted Image (Chad) to take my car to Bandimere in Aug. '10
So I worked on my car all week before at his shop.
Pulled the engine took the bottom end apart and put in a reman. crank.
The Fri. night before Bandi. I had trouble getting the car started so I said screw it I'll go w/o.
Get to Denver and Yuri (BoostedSchemes) and Matt (SOHCKLR657) talked me in getting my car down there and finsh getting it running.
More info. on how Yuri got there checkout this thread http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=15220.0
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0477.jpg&hash=6ddc7e3f035d2fdc235a22f8dd58a47067194857)
While I waited for my car to be towed down to Denver for me.
I was checking out Matt's setup
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0478.jpg&hash=248b56d932f651943af9eb7550f58bca49a1ee3e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0478.jpg&hash=248b56d932f651943af9eb7550f58bca49a1ee3e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0480.jpg&hash=7b5f9cc1cd4b0ab3cb0feb41f1fa460cfe057242)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0481.jpg&hash=f81b5089aababf2c2a1e340ea35eb54e69308a29)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0482.jpg&hash=737202186963e2ee0126e98c8a32ccdaa0dfba33)
Matt showing his Extra Fluffy pose
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0483.jpg&hash=ef141cc3cae9ad1127abf561ed9244893554fa10)
To Levi (UI) with love from Matt
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0486.jpg&hash=33972f900c02b15c7dc436649afc59e2352c705e)
At the track @ Bandi. RHMT represent.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0487.jpg&hash=be9895392471fc4ea9bed1d3a36ed602453b6a8f)
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I do not have picts. of my car at the track.
We did not tack it of the trailer because I could not keep the car running.
Got it back home and found the engine ground was not tightened down, and heater core hose connection was leaking really bad.
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I have been working on my car since I got back from Denver.
Damn electrical Gremlins.
Found 2 ground issues, 1 bat. to power dist. box issue, and AEM WB gauge took a shit.
I've had to replace the ign. coil and igniter.
I'm moving my mechanical oil gauge to where the AEM WB was.
Installing my new 14point7 SLC the week of 9-26-10
I have to replace the heater core in the near future or winter is go to suck for me.
Then back to tuning.
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And Now Installation How-to of my 14point7 Pure Plus SLC
First read the instructions.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0495.jpg&hash=59dd8f429418da41a9e1a1373b2e6393376c98ef)
Look at your power (4pin w/ Orange, Red, Black, Brown wire) connector and figure where you want to get your 12v power and ground.
I used this Diagram
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2FEGfuseBlockDiagram.gif&hash=14c432265df3d0d136d655f90046b882642c4db3)
Hook up the red to the constant hot when key on
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0499.jpg&hash=440c94244f36e1c848198a5e8f6ba7e03193df23)
Put the fuses in the holders make sure you use the right size to the circuit based on the instructions.
Also make sure the spring tension in the holders are good.
I had to modify mine to get good contacts or I would lose voltage intermittently.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0498.jpg&hash=94e9a20d0ee163de353996d151ca758b54712a01)
Now hook up the 6pin connector and route through the firewall to hook up to WB O2.
BTW the replacement O2 is Bosch p/n 14017 approx. $55 locally.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0497.jpg&hash=2d06601c44d99f307e9978868b5e34c9cb2ff068)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0491.jpg&hash=0392469d405729b1e59b3f45918aa079761ed541)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0490.jpg&hash=d9e1e26249a774e83acff0a40f87aa56ecf1f8ac)
The Display has been moved to where the clock would be in the dash in March '11. (idea from Apex.)
Figure out where you want the display.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0492.jpg&hash=7c985a774438c7ee1d107800ebf1940de4f51eb8)
After everything is hooked up.
The display should look like this.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0501.jpg&hash=25a7d97a26c9d8a16710109736d8e401662c3439)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2F100_0502.jpg&hash=169fa81f09f02032cf258e7d9e73b832eec1c3fd)
Then load up the SLC program on your lappy.
And open up the program.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F14point7%2520Pure%2520Plus%2520SLC%2520install%2FSLCeditscreenshot.jpg&hash=b6fad81ea9de783b807d9486d36dde39cc5cb375)
-
And now some vids of bothe car running with the s/c engauged and my Pure Plus SLC in use.
Thanks to HotRodLincoln for the help with vids.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0547.jpg&hash=6393350673a2db3b8117d14759f88807de07f716) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0547.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0548.jpg&hash=1b78007c00c81641b298a64758767df14c7accac) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0548.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0549.jpg&hash=95d3a44a598435eba5d5b3363418eb08f1d239e5) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0549.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0550.jpg&hash=8a8b7c9294878aa46093dc0e456f321c803bbf26) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0550.mp4)
All these vids are posted on FlipNog's youtube account also.
Now some picts before and after installing the 3" IC piping and new manifolds to S/C
Before manifold update.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0606.jpg&hash=c79da5d75f3e1501b54c438d73752cfbbe1e8786)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0607.jpg&hash=3d6022f3af34c982a553a5e6ae12c75a18daf342)
After update
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0608.jpg&hash=1acafe7a48dd3a804dbec295c7139cac65432b54)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0609.jpg&hash=24f7303c977f8e18155a0894c7e95fd4e7ac53c0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0610.jpg&hash=4ace483c96ed33887d5d5c133247608200426773)
With new Intercooler
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0611.jpg&hash=f839a5faef48b7c98ce3c59fb48b95dae9f7f9fd)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0612.jpg&hash=ed465c2e9ba8adf062b1c40ed1d29a03bab174dd)
New filter
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0613.jpg&hash=4b8404828b3ff735b0e84cc74dcaca244cc6a3a1)
Tucked behind bumper
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0614.jpg&hash=8ba85499db425a1cde7bf521bd2ec6f46a849728)
This is what happens when you use shitty couplers.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0615.jpg&hash=d476e0e0d23e1476aa56a1b0bd69ebcee84a75a9)
Bought all new black 4ply couplers and t-bolts.
So no more boost leaks and couplers bursting.
Finally got my HE351ve, already modified the way wanted.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0700.jpg&hash=efbd96ee08724aeb81c73f79f280dd2d1a47cb85)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0701.jpg&hash=67ee2a649dc904309509411ccaff75967f69ba34)
Quick look at the room needed to get this beast in.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0702.jpg&hash=a654710738e8f59a2557255a4365e46062d1567e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0703.jpg&hash=31ff8233da513bd9a25522d7d801f5666c1b14f4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0704.jpg&hash=176ce32f5412414b8012f1cd530710c9394fed94)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0706.jpg&hash=fe81c6e7b45357d492eb1f8c6ba479784ec5d5d8)
-
I went to The '11 PNW RHMT fluffy Crew Dyno Day Meet.
Met up with Trevor (Daspoop) in Billings at a gas station.
I drive up and he new my car right off and said your leaking a lot water.
I looked at the leak and it was fuel.
I had installed a CDM FPR because I kept overpowering the stock FPR and pressures would shoot to 200psi.
I used the supplied hose from rail to FPR. it crack and leaked a lot of fuel.
We went to a parts store in Billings and got a new Fuel Injection Hose.
Fixed it and we drove around Billings a bit and found my alternator was making noise.
I had replaced it with a good one, since I saw too much voltage swings.
Noticed the bottom pivot bolt fell out so back to the parts store.
After all the repairs we got back on the road for about a 18hr drive Spiker's house.
We had a lot of fun driving through the Mountains.
Instead of down shifting I would just hit the A/C switch on the dash and accelerate up the mountain in 5th gear. ;D
Saw this guy's car as I passed, no idea what was up with it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0801.jpg&hash=e10c3c336f7da49c16f5273c53e396921b82ad6f)
Daspoop
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0802.jpg&hash=0addc43826076f1fb8cac7e058f5f392d37f968b)
'11 Dyno picts.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0804.jpg&hash=deffe76e65c99f5e1f22f4b2dc78b835abdf3c6f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0805.jpg&hash=0e691860bc31adbe25dc09f8413156fd0c88adb3)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0806.jpg&hash=acc62872cd4dee637d0c081d378cf237323f79f2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0810.jpg&hash=6781f4df94bf867464ec199e89d8f0381711da66)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0812.jpg&hash=193aa84fe3a5f1ac88c6f2501166be24b7e316a2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0826.jpg&hash=67d80bc440ab23886dbb384a91ae2b472f12ae12)
Adam's (Mandrel-Bends) baller M5
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0811.jpg&hash=6b8577863fd6e7be097e267d5c7071de34e61ecd)
My Dyno vids at 7psi an 7k max and no vtec engauged. The S/C belt kept getting shredded or thrown.
Later found one of the lower mounting for the S/C cam loose and fell out.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0807.jpg&hash=56ed2f015fa30508fb6f701e495cd50524430576) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0807.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0814.jpg&hash=e7fcfa7e4897d80da38806ed2a5cec6ebc3588e4) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0814.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0816.jpg&hash=468baf5682b4a41e26dbfff72d500ba6eb41874b) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0816.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0817.jpg&hash=d951695e55010944461bf89479823aeaaf589254) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0817.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0818.jpg&hash=348657f0e2e714380ecf63d26afa6809c6050fd2) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0818.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0818.jpg&hash=348657f0e2e714380ecf63d26afa6809c6050fd2) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0818.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0820.jpg&hash=9c76f2c3f8b7a5f920e2d684906da7d2da8306d4) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0820.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0821.jpg&hash=d9ca83afec4166e5aa0009099d727a3f31da1ca2) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0821.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0822.jpg&hash=b9fc96acbc687b119a2c9853766b7626a71499c6) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0822.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0823.jpg&hash=0dda73efaa36f4b7015a889d962790ae6b0b300f) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0823.mp4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0824.jpg&hash=e2bd53af7f7765bea16596384001bcac0252aab6) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0824.mp4)
More Dyno vids
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0809.jpg&hash=a1b179c5f0a9a8a2fde2f33600552debcb3445d6) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0809.mp4)
Spiker trying to hold 88DX's car (I think)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2Fth_100_0825.jpg&hash=202d4d0e9309f22d218fada1348795268d7fe3aa) (http://s653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/?action=view¤t=100_0825.mp4)
Antics at SPiker's garage. Look out Canadian with an assault rifle.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0827.jpg&hash=0f461d3a9b7f0865396dec34894596adc8e813a9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0828.jpg&hash=ceb5901354dac403e8667b5527d4fc920db96a74)
Had a lot more fun in Seattle than the last two Meets I went to.
Left Mon. after the meet got as far as Spokane and my car would not restart.
Looked at the cap and rotor since it seemed to be a spark related.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F%5BIMG%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0835.jpg&hash=63fdf36aa557ee099b57efbe3892191633300647)[/img]
The center electrode burnt up.
After replacing the cap and rotor and got the car to started it ran like dog shit.
My Datalogger stop working so I could not see what the ecu sees.
After about 30hrs stranded in Spokane at my sister's house.
I replaced the dizzy and then put a stock map and injectors in.
It started running a lot better and drove it home in 14hrs. and went straight to work since I was late.
-
Been driving the car with stock inj. and stock map sensor.
I think the automatic update of Crome pro 1.5.5 to 1.6 May 18th caused a serious issue with everything.
Since then there was complaints of Datalogging not working and some program issues.
I've been reading the new version 1.6.2 should take car of that.
We'll see, I ruined the crank again.
Looking at the block I think the mains needed align bored.
So at the moment I have a completely stock z6 going back in.
I really had a lot of fun with the original setup.
Instead of using V-AFC, I'll use Crome Pro with demon (just picked up for $80 ;D)
I'm also looking at an Android Datalogging software with bluetooth adapter.
-
Time for a bit of update :noel:
I took all of the s/c setup off so I can finally start straightening the nose of car up a bit.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG132.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224921&hash=9371a9d0721d5b682dd17a0f75f8bc1668c2e6cc)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG175.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224925&hash=4b744575562d4ec61f6c2b052e189a6e08a37f42)
Broke the good bumper off in the snow so I'll have to order a new bumper.
Already have new fenders, radiator support and hood.
The car ran a lot better after some more issue were resolved.
The big ones was the jumper wire for j1 looked and felt like a good connection but was not.
That was what was causing all my datalogging, and tuning issues.
After I fixed the ecu issue and updated Crome Pro 1.6.3 (latest) everthing works right.
The engine I had at the last meet took a shit when the j1 completely disconnected and I was running on the internal rom.
Wore out all the bearing and got that familiar rod knock, so I shut it down.
Tried to bore and hone my spare D16a6 block and some how got the boring set wrong.
Overbored it way too much. :'(
Saving it for the Darton MID sleeves I have sitting on the shelf, looking for a machine shop who would install these w/o raping my wallet. :?:
A guy gave me a y8 block to use, have that being bored over 0.05mm o/s and decked 0.020" with 0.004 0.005" PW clearance.
Should have that back today.
After I had figured out the tuning issue with the stock z6 (thanks sunnyjay) in the car, I went to drive and did not realize I had builtup enough raw fuel in the exhaust system.
And this happened:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG186.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224929&hash=0a035bc4c2788b72fbecec659e2ed1369b6c6b0b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG187.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224929&hash=0322c7fb8d20d7e4f1275f35e5ea0962eecfbddd)
So I drove like that for a while until I can find a 3" exhaust for my HB since I will need it later.
Bought one off of ebay, realized later I bought an exhaust for a 2/4dr instead.
OLD exhaust and new exhaust:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG185.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224925&hash=0bcb8016c0d204ce531faade062885a7883c41fc)
fitted everything on
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG191.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224935&hash=eae1df22aca6d998bc28a7fbc4098f6e68cb56d1)
Cut the hangers off of the muffler and looked at how much pipe we need to cut of the axle back section.
Then cut and weld
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG188.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224932&hash=0da11f6e8a09c1f0dc86717ecfcb92a80c8d2b14)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG189.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224932&hash=d8e79c8da6c85ca8614bd9a7ba57d45c579594af)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG192.jpg%3Ft%3D1331224921&hash=f0a6a69263071bbb94035dd2940966f215391f51)
This exhaust is a lot quieter, but a not all who use the test pipe.
Make sure the O2 bungs and caps are tight. :noel:
My goal is get the engine done this weekend, but I can not I'll work on the front end.
Looking at straightening it with a port-a-power and come-a-long.
Drill the spot welds off the old radiator support and then straighten the beams to rad. support using the front engine torque mounts as guide of straightness and fender and hood.
Then bolt on the new rad support to make it easier to put in and take out the engine w/ s/c and turbo setup still attached. :noel:
Suppose to see 50's this weekend so I need to get moving. ;)
;)
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FUCK YEA!
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OK this weekend I decided to get the nose fixed.
So this what I started with.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FNose%2520work%2520on%2520my%2520ride%2FIMG193.jpg%3Ft%3D1331420355&hash=454fda1ec94f5b5dba400d75bcdc689fb0bb6d40)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FNose%2520work%2520on%2520my%2520ride%2FIMG194.jpg%3Ft%3D1331420345&hash=9c11fd641eb03b397d0beeddf3ae4a8063cba95b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FNose%2520work%2520on%2520my%2520ride%2FIMG195.jpg%3Ft%3D1331420384&hash=59f17cb461e7e5963f0855dd533168e3987f5ffb)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FNose%2520work%2520on%2520my%2520ride%2FIMG200.jpg%3Ft%3D1331420414&hash=45ee7761b203c3939dcd3b0f20c9f2eff401462d)
replacing with a new
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FNose%2520work%2520on%2520my%2520ride%2FIMG197.jpg%3Ft%3D1331420404&hash=086c60f23bd37adfff444f63c3c0949dab82b606)
But before i can do that I need to straighten the two struts/square frame pieces sticking out. :noel:
Planning on making this a bolt on affair to make easy to pull and reinstall engine w/ trans, supercharger, and turbo as a unit. ;DDD
;DDD ;DDD
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0706.jpg&hash=fe81c6e7b45357d492eb1f8c6ba479784ec5d5d8)
Thats a good idea with the angle and bolts as a travel limiters, why didn't i think of that.... ;)
for some reason... that HoSlut looks awfully familiar...
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2F100_0706.jpg&hash=fe81c6e7b45357d492eb1f8c6ba479784ec5d5d8)
Thats a good idea with the angle and bolts as a travel limiters, why didn't i think of that.... ;)
for some reason... that HoSlut looks awfully familiar...
It should look familiar, got it from you. :noel:
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Oh yea get er done! :noel:
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Cool to see something other than a turbo build. Sick build.
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Cool to see something other than a turbo build. Sick build.
You have seen nothing yet :noel:
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Interesting to see how this hood as fuck car pans out.
O0 O0 O0
May Sheen be with you.
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A small update
Will new front end with old hood
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FNose%2520work%2520on%2520my%2520ride%2FIMG201.jpg%3Ft%3D1331902965&hash=db27871a21737478455067160f6d473bee307cc6)
New front end with with new hood
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FNose%2520work%2520on%2520my%2520ride%2FIMG202.jpg%3Ft%3D1331902964&hash=dc4471f0e479dd1f272b6b19d4baad051b3fc312)
Still need get new hood hinges, already ordered.
First time 10years of own this car I can use the hood release cable. :noel:
And new inner fender and under tray will be next to be installed.
This weekend finish getting the engine built, mock some of the supercharger brackets and pulleys.
Figure out the turbo manifold to fit in everything, most likely will have to move the radiator over and box in.
Next weekend replacing all the control arm and trailing arm bushings. :noel:
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Russ that looks WAY better. Don't do anything more, except maybe a mild lip and paint.
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Russ that looks WAY better. Don't do anything more, except maybe a mild lip and paint.
Paint may have to wait, but I do plan on getting HIDs and fog/driving lights in.
Ordered my chassis stiffening parts this morning, except I forgot to order the strut tower to fire wall brace.
Also just ordered a S2K Clutch master cylinder, since I already have spacers.
I have a really short shifter (Del Slo stock shifter, I think) and I can not get the clutch to engage and disengage fast enough when racing. (XTD stage 5 setup)
This should help knock a fraction of a sec. off each shift. :noel:
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Damn solid work!
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This car will never run at an RHMT Dyno meet. It's tradition we all spend our time trying to fix it, knowing it really won't. <3
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This car will never run at an RHMT Dyno meet. It's tradition we all spend our time trying to fix it, knowing it really won't. <3
It ran at the last one. :noel:
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It ran at the last one. :noel:
And it has some crazy madmax supercharger sound...lol
Btw, the front end looks 1000x better. If you put hid's in the stock headlight housing I will kick you in the nuts!
Check out http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/) and http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/ (http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/) if you want to do it right
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Damn russ. Thats solid. I would keep that old hood as it might needs to have some holes put in it for your snail. Cant wait to cruise with you again in may.
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It ran at the last one. :noel:
And it has some crazy madmax supercharger sound...lol
Btw, the front end looks 1000x better. If you put hid's in the stock headlight housing I will kick you in the nuts!
Check out http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/) and http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/ (http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/) if you want to do it right
I guess your going to kick me in the nuts, when I see ya in May.
I'll where a cup just in case. :noel:
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Ok a quick little update:
Replaced the rear trailing arm bushing
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG203.jpg%3Ft%3D1332383308&hash=44b8abedeb236e7ac51e338942932ae6c400bfee)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG204.jpg%3Ft%3D1332383327&hash=8b68d3dcef8be09248a1f300ce3d9c0b1d7914a1)
Burn the old one out as much as possible to make it easier later.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG205.jpg%3Ft%3D1332383337&hash=35bbf77a111c69b2eef2a92774c01aa408033e88)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG206.jpg%3Ft%3D1332383364&hash=341e6e6a062a5eb24fc30af4689736b475384fc8)
Smack that center out and keeping it burning.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG207.jpg%3Ft%3D1332383359&hash=b736e9cfd389aa8bfe64622a9248f7abcb262bce)
Yeap took both arms off.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG208.jpg%3Ft%3D1332383385&hash=44115c9aa3fa925765fc9b1ad206158decc53bf8)
After burning as much of that rubber as possible, I went there with a brass wire wheel on a drill clean that hole up.
Lube hole and bushing and press the bushing from the outboard side in. I used a 20ton press at work took a whole 5min to press. :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG209.jpg%3Ft%3D1332383410&hash=a3189377878de0738538e42769a7ebf7f73ccc41)
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I driven plenty of cars with those re bushings, when push hard or to the edge snap steer was always a issue....
Hard race> es
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I driven plenty of cars with those re bushings, when push hard or to the edge snap steer was always a issue....
Hard race> es
Yeah I was reading about that, and since I already had this kit for free laying around and the original cracked bushing had 219k on them, why not.
When upgrade my brakes in a year, I'll get the spherical bearings for the trailing are and front LCAs. :noel:
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I driven plenty of cars with those re bushings, when push hard or to the edge snap steer was always a issue....
Hard race> es
Yeah I was reading about that, and since I already had this kit for free laying around and the original cracked bushing had 219k on them, why not.
When upgrade my brakes in a year, I'll get the spherical bearings for the trailing are and front LCAs. :noel:
Those bushings almost put me into the wall a few times. On my crx going around a corner pushing it, the car would go from under steering one second to over steering in a blink of the eye........ :?:
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The oversteer is the bushings binding then snapping free. My car has poly everywhere but there.. the stock replacements are fine. Even hardrace or others aren't used by guys who run Solo 2
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The oversteer is the bushings binding then snapping free. My car has poly everywhere but there.. the stock replacements are fine. Even hardrace or others aren't used by guys who run Solo 2
The ES bushing kit was free and I will be replacing those bushing with spherical when I upgrade the brakes, later this summer. :noel:
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The oversteer is the bushings binding then snapping free. My car has poly everywhere but there.. the stock replacements are fine. Even hardrace or others aren't used by guys who run Solo 2
The ES bushing kit was free and I will be replacing those bushing with spherical when I upgrade the brakes, later this summer. :noel:
Free>all
Well done! :noel:
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So FREE > Living?
Would you drive a FREE pink 89 Mustang convertible over a CRX?
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So FREE > Living?
Would you drive a FREE pink 89 Mustang convertible over a CRX?
No but I do have a '82 Mustang GT, I got for free, and a '88 CRX Si that I practically got for free.
Trying to find time to fix the Mustang and sell it to fund the s/c 70mpg CRX Si project. :noel:
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Some more updates:
I replaced the stock clutch master with a S2k unit w/ spacer. :noel:
Take the old one out.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG215.jpg%3Ft%3D1333368981&hash=0e3d1dcd05386b10fa857a99a08e191f5f53582f)
Put the S2k unit in with spacer and you will notice the hydraulic line does not line up well.
No problem with a little patience use your hands to gently bend and pull the line to line up with the new cylinder.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG217.jpg%3Ft%3D1333368986&hash=d87a46f4a710cd3194adc099fe3461c390d75a6f)
Make sure you have the rod adjustment all the way out before connecting it to the clutch peddle.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG216.jpg%3Ft%3D1333368983&hash=abec22b89100099466c3653f34a49b212f763a48)
Bleed the clutch hydraulic system, should take ya about 30min. for the total install :noel:
Before this clutch master cylinder replacement I would have to sit closer to the dash.
I would have to use a lot of leg movement to engage/disengage the clutch.
Now I can put my seat back further and drive more comfortably, use 1/3 the leg movement.
Peddle is firmer and I have enough movement to preload the clutch to hold my car on hills.
I can also shift a lot faster.
Since I'm putting the He351ve on, I better get the oil pan tapped for oil return.
Chose to have the return come in above the baffle and in between reinforcement ribs of the pan.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG227.jpg%3Ft%3D1333368992&hash=0dcfd25bf3b86db3707dc8e88c0690631cd9078c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG228.jpg%3Ft%3D1333368995&hash=25ca03a0b286fca527773de265650015913a637f)
I was looking for an aluminum 1/2" or larger tube for the return.
Then I remembered the line to the old a/c condenser I have laying around.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG232.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369004&hash=12495df7a6034b4a2860a1c75615a6afbdf292bd)
Positioned the line pointing to center and up, while making sure it is in no position to make it hard to tighten the oil pan to block fasteners.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG230.jpg%3Ft%3D1333368995&hash=03a8e23e116fd22b343307195a9bec3e41848b64)
The new engine setup:
Y8 block
75.5mm Vitaras
Cunningham Rods
A6 crank
y8 oil pump
Y8 head mildly ported by me
Stock y8 cam with adjustable gear
stock valves with crower springs and retainers
Block was bored 0.5mm over and decked 0.020"
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG233.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369002&hash=2ada91ad0576fe8e70293a99ef1393d7aa07ad92)
Using the y8 timing components, except at the crank.
The A6 crank is the older smaller snout crank.
So I have to use timing belt sprocket from the a6 and harmonic balancer/pulley.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG234.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369009&hash=da50cf532921af16ad472ae0de5ec8845cf88d0c)
With the crank and short block assembled the crank turns nice with light effort.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG249.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369047&hash=0a99ac8707794557c65defef6a8eacefbf8c9a9d)
The inside of the oil pan needed a little cleaning.
Make it easier when the pan has a bolt in baffle. :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG247.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369042&hash=93ffafca6ce93c36fa29c9250dce4cd5fb09c1b8)
Notice how close the turbo oil drain is to above the baffle.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG248.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369043&hash=803d5de52afcda6740fb851a179dbaed92bd7344)
Put the oil pan on and look how the oil return clears, the block and leaves plenty of room to bolt up the pan.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG250.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369048&hash=03f173305192d72da041ccb5dd793eb8852583ef)
Put the head on and proceeded to get the head studs in and noticed that all of the studs are too long.
Not one or two of them, but all of them. I bought these of a nog on here and I think they sent me the wrong one.
I double check and made sure the machinist took off 0.020" of the deck and not 0.200" off.
The vitara piston top sits ~0.065" below deck, like it should.
So went to the hardware store and bought a box of 100 L9 washers and used 5 washers/stud and torque everything down.
Got the timing belt on with all the timing marks lined up. By the way the A6 crank has now marks to I used a sharpe to mark TDC.
Later I'll mark the pulley with a hacksaw blade to make it easier to time with a light.
Hand crank the engine over and it is freaking hard as hell. :?: :-\
So take the rocker assembly off and inspect the cam, it had some serious divots in a couple of the lobes.
So I grab another cam I have laying around looks to be a z6 cam.
Then I thought I better check the rocker assembly found at least 4 rockers with flat/worn pads.
I have 3 z6 and 2 y8 rocker assemblies so I'll just use the best of what I have.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG235.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369014&hash=20cb6c59437d67a6663683f920f0c53dc00fe8c3)
Strip the rocker shafts and there is a bit of metal clogging up the exhaust rocker shaft.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG236.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369016&hash=6f1551f1c0d4a8bdbd6499fd8f2c46f5e24e543d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG238.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369022&hash=bd672b70f667c2d69daca1005d79bc82f2595834)
They should have clean holes like this.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG237.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369022&hash=fecb126db07aeca4e7394743828a8d019f137c10)
By the way P08 (z6) and P2a (y8) rocker shaft are not exactly the same
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG242.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369031&hash=1440cd52c08d28651fcac8d59873cf207d0e1afd)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG244.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369033&hash=bcb05ea5a9ee01d57e1a041da6720889da9a049a)
With everything stripped and clean I start from the dizzy side, and start assembling everything together.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG240.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369027&hash=7bfd1fe129e248c0e3355da8e8433e03d58c9668)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG245.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369037&hash=9248f354cbc1d2c7090b437a39d1e99f703d6c60)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG246.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369038&hash=6dc31b733dbe170bd5e1fc4cd350de6fe4b6022d)
Here is another note, if you want to know if you have P08 parts in your y8 look at the pad on the rockers.
The y8 pads have little notches on them. The pad on the right is a po8
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG239.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369026&hash=7f986f08840311d529c427819f398135db0e8a9d)
Got the head back together and bolted on, hand cranked the long block, a lot easier now. :noel:
Got the water pipe back on with black box, and a Tuner Toy oil feed fixture. I bought from a nog on here new.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG254.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369056&hash=68cc5bf55df6f660dc78719abdb4ea3933d737a6)
Probably going to use a copper 1/8" hard line for the oil supply. :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG255.jpg%3Ft%3D1333368980&hash=2d5cce010152dbaf21471cad7b8a7301ede642af)
So time to bolt the S/C on, this time with a new idler pulley and lower bracket bolt setup.
Last year when I went to the PNW RHMT meet, I kept losing belts, and could not get above 7psi on the dyno.
Well the bottom bracket rear most bolt (from pulley) had fallen out.
I decided to not repeat this issue, got me a 3/8 x 8" bolt with nylock nut and new 90mm dia. idler pulley.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG251.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369051&hash=3bac40badbeac1cad9ecb0ba7f53b10c3f12e6cf)
That fixed, I bolted on the partially done Wier log manifold on to figure out turbo placement.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG252.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369052&hash=2a031b7d84d2c77b1c4359c34ee43fe846dc9582)
He351ve sits nice and snug above the s/c, with the turbo compressor housing laying top of the s/c.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG253.jpg%3Ft%3D1333369056&hash=fefb028be0cd04d760860879d10896451d7dd169)
This is all I have for now will have more updates soon. :noel:
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FUCK YEA!
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Ok pulled the stock z6 with unknown mileage out.
Before/start of engine removal
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG257-1.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575513&hash=5a42c3c76c3bde0f89c2e70d6c0e432691361c41)
Take front bumper cover and radiator support off.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG258.jpg%3Ft%3D1333972128&hash=435d04470c549b02cb72da28d4143da5fd00f05a)
New Victim
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG259.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575518&hash=2ebb77ea32d5675dec7d46051e4e782ce86d3f00)
Sitting in the bay before motor mounts are bolted in.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG261.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575521&hash=7850d4240c4cd062ea67bda2985d7fe3646e68fe)
With engine bolted in started to put the radiator support back on S/C outlet was blocking it from lining up properly.
No worries, notch that bitch with a sawzall :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG264.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575524&hash=75712223a8b7f254000f5d1be25020da9a0b094f)
Had to clearance that area a lot keep the coupler from getting cut up by the radiator support under normal driving.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG265.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575527&hash=220316f6d3b55d4902ab3c3a0b82e7c43e370ae3)
Closeup of the S/C outlet and coupler and little on how it bends around.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG266.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575528&hash=2b029a60b26db379f1d5dfc16e6cbe3120310df0)
The top of that bend to intercooler w/ DSM BOV.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG267.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575529&hash=a626ba1e518c0d2f15d4e0d45761aab696a53fa7)
Carving out the plastic in the backside of the bumper to clear the piping before the intercooler.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG268.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575531&hash=975416cc8096ba2e48632ac0e8ac289d845332dc)
This cutter works awesome with trimming.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG269.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575532&hash=58e43be1b0072299602b18e1be958edf1e09f787)
The intercooler actually wedges in the radiator support like it belongs there, PERFECTLY.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG271.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575535&hash=ac69ddcd16fe28443077bc3725c58e170aa17175)
A shot of the intercooler and 3" piping, BOV and the bends needed.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG272.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575537&hash=2ddc1ab55f52a812ce976a9b4ca2afca8c29abb6)
Quick fuzzy shot of engine, notice the roll of 1/8" copper oil line above the timing belt side of VC.
That will be for the turbo when in. :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG273.jpg%3Ft%3D1334575538&hash=03933498483417a21a2c400678d21cd41cc4d042)
Cranked the engine over w/o dizzy hooked up to get the oil primed up, seeing 60psi while cranking.
Then hooked the dizzy backup and she started right of the bat, but could not stay running well.
Looked at mechanical timing and realize I had the cam timing set for a Z6 head and not Y8.
advance the cam 4.5deg. and she runs a lot better.
She does not like decelerating below 2k revs. So keep her lower gear to lug the engine and keep her above 3k most of the time.
The ignition timing is set at 10TDC at idle, idle at 750, sprakplug gap at 0.025"
I drove it to work this morning and she is getting better.
This afternoon I'll play with the Crome tuning and dial her in better.
Then this week I'll get the Precision 788cc inj. and 3bar map back, street tune.
Then street tune with the S/C running.
Hopefully this weekend I can then put the He351ve to use. :noel:
Also replacing the the rack and pinion boots and maybe a lower ball joint in the front.
The driver side ball joint seems too lose when I had it separated pulling the cv axle.
But when I have everything bolted back together it seems tight, no play when grabbing the unloaded wheel and tire.
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Damn nice work! I like the plate "RHMT" :noel:
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Damn nice work! I like the plate "RHMT" :noel:
If I keep the CRX I'm thinking of getting another but with county 2 (Laramie county). :noel:
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Russ, you engine bay looks like shit....... Only way to redeemed it would be to put a he351 in there too.
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Russ, you engine bay looks like shit....... Only way to redeemed it would be to put a he351 in there too.
Coming very soon, possibly this weekend. :noel:
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Alright the front end is back off.
I started with the turbine housing, removed it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG286.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499614&hash=e5d586bda85e4bbe952134d1e344cfbead577adf)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG287.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499603&hash=47bb37baa06569fd74deee751771307de77417ad)
+
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG288.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499635&hash=80905f59ed94c4853d170eec6f64ce188504c377)
=
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG289.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499643&hash=72772df0f528bc69b774b136813dc8e37b372b08)
Starting the downpipe
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG290.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499668&hash=0b6f75eef78e85852abccf6ce516769a19419fb0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG292.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499698&hash=efb80c5d2977c30830d9d106bf42e370136c4dc8)
Manifold carving for the mounting flange.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG291.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499670&hash=46643f5d954a3b2e9634e8e7184941750742949c)
Carved into radiator support to get everything to fit. This is will probably be the final position.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG294.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499695&hash=2072672318b7dc79c4e1e0696e0b3fe4600bbc33)
With radiator moved over and downpipe connected, still looking on shortening the manifold runners about 1/4" to give more room.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG295.jpg%3Ft%3D1335499712&hash=580e142f4af9754ebf9a0a6eaab8da0faabef5b7)
The hood is within 1/4" from closing perfectly, between modifying manifold runner length and denting the hood brace should take care of this.
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That turbo is ridiculously big in the engine bay. LOL
Can't wait to see that thing running :noel:
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Might want to finish the log before making the dp!
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I just hope its not blown up inthe next 2 weeks
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I just hope its not blown up inthe next 2 weeks
I think it will get babied all the way up there, raped a bit on the dyno then babied on the way back. :noel:
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So the supercharger is going to blow into the turbo, with some sort of bypass for when the turbo is doing more sucking than the supercharger is blowing? Or? And do you have enough room for both, and took plumb it all together? That turbo is fucking enormous.
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Turbo => S/C => inter cooler => TB => engine
There will be a by pass around the S/C when the s/c clutch is disengaged.
The compressor wheel size of the HE351ve is very similar in size to the HX40 at 60mm inducer 80mm exducer.
The turbine housing is just freakin' hugh due to the use VGT, which basically acts as means to "A" in A/R of turbine side.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi166.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu97%2Fboostforfun%2FHE351VE%2Fvanesout.jpg&hash=1bce5662be51ec9f3ef4072ad3b4473c0ce0655f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi166.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu97%2Fboostforfun%2FHE351VE%2Fvanesin.jpg&hash=74f902d12c06426df80b2d8810bd12a128a3bc42)
A/R of like .5 to 1.1 is roughly what it be like.
I'll start at the largest A/R and work my way up to what I want for my goals.
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I wouldn't recommend using the SC clutch except to save a cunthair more gas while cruising. The clutch will not like constantly engaging with a 20-30hp load on it instantly if you work it at WOT. When bypassed, the SC is just moving air; almost no power is used to turn it.
I honestly think the only reason MB uses a clutch is for that extra bit of gas savings to attain better emissions.
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I wouldn't recommend using the SC clutch except to save a cunthair more gas while cruising. The clutch will not like constantly engaging with a 20-30hp load on it instantly if you work it at WOT. When bypassed, the SC is just moving air; almost no power is used to turn it.
I honestly think the only reason MB uses a clutch is for that extra bit of gas savings to attain better emissions.
And to improve thermal efficiency due to air recirculating between lobes and casing wall. :noel:
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Alright I have turbo on with the radiator support clearance and the hood barely shuts. :noel:
To get the He351ve to fit, I had to cut the mounting ear on the S/C not being used.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG296.jpg%3Ft%3D1335758588&hash=ee354fca9801e23c8dcf2773e46e2b8e2c16dce0)
Ground for clearance
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG297.jpg%3Ft%3D1335758583&hash=1f604eab79edb7294855cb179d6a12f3b83b81ff)
More grounding for clearance
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG298.jpg%3Ft%3D1335758618&hash=bedfa4609071ab9440333da7d7391a23e24f0c94)
Had to replace the mounting studs
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG299.jpg%3Ft%3D1335758615&hash=d74b220814e25aa47d6677a26f144e2786bd3d5c)
Lucky I had this coupler going from 2.5" to 3.0 90deg, had to shorten it on the turbo side.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG300.jpg%3Ft%3D1335758627&hash=11f813e1c5a90948d00f9fc17ad12fc76824e7fb)
This where I'm at until tomorrow :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG301.jpg%3Ft%3D1335758650&hash=4df375a2158efab34ac5ebd2f66f202f43883653)
Already ran the oil drain, not pictured here.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG303.jpg%3Ft%3D1335758658&hash=785f95917d0a4cdd2c8c60e98b4b378e783e31a3)
Next I'll work on the radiator and ducting setup.
Then finish 3" exhaust from turbo to resonator.
Ordered a turbo blanket and 50' of 1" wide header wrap, should see that this week. :noel:
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I bet grinding that off the housing took forever.
Looking good, what cylinder rod bearing you plan on spinning this year? :P :P
Nice work
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I bet grinding that off the housing took forever.
Looking good, what cylinder rod bearing you plan on spinning this year? :P :P
Nice work
King bearing with new Cunningham rods :noel:
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You check the clearances on those bearings??
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$5 says you warped the turbo housing with the grinding heat. ;DDD Fuck that must have been either a big grinder, or one that's now burnt out.
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$5 says you warped the turbo housing with the grinding heat. ;DDD Fuck that must have been either a big grinder, or one that's now burnt out.
If ya talking about the turbine housing, I used an industrial grinding wheel at the foundry I work at. :noel:
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Well, make sure you put your header in the trunk along will all your tools when your making the trek up to the dyno day. That way when you hit Montana and something shits itself You can at least put it on and drive it na. Other than that how are you going to control the vgt?
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Russ solid work!
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Well, make sure you put your header in the trunk along will all your tools when your making the trek up to the dyno day. That way when you hit Montana and something shits itself You can at least put it on and drive it na. Other than that how are you going to control the vgt?
I'll have two tabs with bolts to adjust to one setting, or a range. :noel:
Cover that in the next couple days. :noel:
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You check the clearances on those bearings??
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You check the clearances on those bearings??
Yes they checkout, towards the loose side. :noel:
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If you have the VGT solenoid it is possible to hook a EBC output up to control it :)
You'd just need to finagle the settings to make it work properly.
I plan on trying to use my egr as a wastegate this way... We will see how that goes.
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If you have the VGT solenoid it is possible to hook a EBC output up to control it :)
You'd just need to finagle the settings to make it work properly.
I plan on trying to use my egr as a wastegate this way... We will see how that goes.
I did not a solenoid. :noel:
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If you have the VGT solenoid it is possible to hook a EBC output up to control it :)
You'd just need to finagle the settings to make it work properly.
I plan on trying to use my egr as a wastegate this way... We will see how that goes.
I did not a solenoid. :noel:
the whole thing? wow
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If you have the VGT solenoid it is possible to hook a EBC output up to control it :)
You'd just need to finagle the settings to make it work properly.
I plan on trying to use my egr as a wastegate this way... We will see how that goes.
I did not a solenoid. :noel:
the whole thing? wow
LOL my proof reading sux. ;DDD
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no one has faith in russ. This year you have nothin I need weird.
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I have faith in Russ. HEs got heart.
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Oh I have faith that Russ will make it run, maybe not well, but it will run. O0
Where is the wastegate going?
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Russ just kills himself by doing too much at once. It's always something small that ends up being impossible to track down since he has 14 unusual things added each step...
Russ get one thing working at a time and you'll be good.
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Oh I have faith that Russ will make it run, maybe not well, but it will run. O0
Where is the wastegate going?
No WG going with adjusting the VGT to full open.
Then adjust when needed. :noel:
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Oh I have faith that Russ will make it run, maybe not well, but it will run. O0
Where is the wastegate going?
No WG going with adjusting the VGT to full open.
Then adjust when needed. :noel:
It WILL still overboost even with the vanes wide open. I promise this as we have already tried this with a vitara D and this turbo. You still need a wg to control overall boost pressure. With the vanes wide open it was slow to spool, but would still make 30psi+
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I found one of the exhaust bolts and springs daspoop littered my driveway with still in my front yard yesterday doing his hack of an exhaust in my driveway.
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I found one of the exhaust bolts and springs daspoop littered my driveway with still in my front yard yesterday doing his hack of an exhaust in my driveway.
LOL I remember that. :noel:
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Oh I have faith that Russ will make it run, maybe not well, but it will run. O0
Where is the wastegate going?
No WG going with adjusting the VGT to full open.
Then adjust when needed. :noel:
It WILL still overboost even with the vanes wide open. I promise this as we have already tried this with a vitara D and this turbo. You still need a wg to control overall boost pressure. With the vanes wide open it was slow to spool, but would still make 30psi+
Alright I'd follow your advise and pull the manifold turbo off and get the 50mm WG added on top of the mani, with a 90deg bend.
I already took the radiator support back out and unbolt everything, got to bring it to work b/c I do not have the means to put a hole in the mani. :noel:
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi144.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr187%2Ffroggy_041%2F9e38386d.jpg&hash=9cc74e7a57ad5d067e998bc02aa8cd175dfc1413)
+ WG
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russ i would plumb your wastegate rather than from the intake manifold, from between the turbo outlet to s/c inlet from what I can see your going to be charging pre charged air and without some respect to pressure ratios you could easily endup with WAYY to much boost not to mention just hot air. I would only use the turbo to make a small boost number that backs up in front of the blower then every spin of the blower instead of atmo pressure its getting 8-10 psi and passing it along to your 2.6L honda. ;)
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Alright I took the turbo and manifold back off, a lot easier than what I was dreading. :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG314.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056294&hash=350dc4d99b413c14ff7d30654e12067163f890ba)
With 2 guys from my foundry maintenance, a Bridgeport, and 2 1/8" hole we got this started.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG318.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056301&hash=9b1f1fb141df5f8ee137ee377144bbdfc19e00d7)
That damn hole looks bigger than the mani.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG319.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056310&hash=463a506f02166ae39c5fbcb1d3134ebc7631a4ca)
Then we cut up some 2" elbow for the WG.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG320.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056311&hash=4d34a9c7f52db841c868dfb6533a7858abbd93a4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG321.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056313&hash=dd636e2cbc61f4f273370823259d9fa72803ecdb)
Tacked in the hole to get the WG position right. :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG322.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056314&hash=b802b52993cc33c8a2b4b2d530748cd0d2c1b095)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG323.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056317&hash=4a3b8a3478624c2b36389620aa597e5ba423178d)
Kept the hole saw handy to make flange for the dump tube, since I do not have one.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG315.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056297&hash=1dbf0b7ba2ce2ac2eff63afe9efee6719c8940e2)
Cut the flange edges to kind of match the pattern of the WG dump side.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG316.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056298&hash=c83b0f901cfe2dc4e660391965498e04ceee995c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG317.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056300&hash=7b61f8b790fd91605bbe16e27b74506a135aa261)
WG dump tube and flange mounted w/ the WG already mounted to manifold.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG324.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056318&hash=9366ba87e6198b0767c207de14b347b9e6168add)
Now onto how I can adjust the VGT mechanism a little different than what is post out there.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG325.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056320&hash=321c2aedc28b22f45f151ee5f589dd52699d9c9c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG327.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056324&hash=210fbd2e0701341f0d27771862acb1197aed3fc9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG328.jpg%3Ft%3D1336056293&hash=03cf6924fc9fd8d0f6972b419cf648d783113c2f)
A big thanks to Adam (Mandrel-Bends) for the free pipe and bends this build has used, much appreciate it.
And Daspoop I will run the pressure signal line from the turbo compressor housing to WG. :noel:
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Why not added a wg to adj the vains?
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Youre already aware....
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,10007.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,10007.0.html)
Where is this asshole.
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Youre already aware....
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,10007.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,10007.0.html)
Where is this asshole.
I was wondering this myself a while back. :noel:
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Russ how much power did you end up making?
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Russ how much power did you end up making?
Nothing to brag about. :noel:
246hp/226ft-lbs at the PNW meet, there is some tuning issues I need to address. :?:
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Russ how much power did you end up making?
Nothing to brag about. :noel:
246hp/226ft-lbs at the PNW meet, there is some tuning issues I need to address. :?:
Crank the boost!
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One of these days, you'll just put a turbo on it, crank the boost, love it and be like, why didn't I just do that 10 years ago. lol
Best acronym ever.........KISS
He has been told 100000000000000000000000000000000 times. About 10000 more this past weekend. HX 35 wiht small housing.
Russ isnt allowed at my house again untill that fucking thing has a TURBO on it, and all of the uneccessary bullshit is gone LOL
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So did it run both the turbo and the supercharger on the dyno?
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So did it run both the turbo and the supercharger on the dyno?
Yes, cam timing was off 2degs (4deg on crank), and wrong crome map loaded.
Only made 246whp/226ft-lb @ 7k max rev and 19-21psi
Got it all straighten out when I got home also found a broken wire to my D plug to my ecu.
But fuck it I'll drive it with a modified map that worked for my at and after '11 dyno Leed and Daspoop work on.
Runs better but with a lot blow by in the V/C and black box/pcv hose.
Thinking I need a good oil catch made that traps so vaporized oil.
I'm not losing oil, so that is good. :noel:
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Russ what cam you on?
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Russ what cam you on?
Stock y8, but using a A6 crank and pulley w/ y8 timing covers.
Now ya go me thinking about checking the timing again. :?:
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Russ what cam you on?
Stock y8, but using a A6 crank and pulley w/ y8 timing covers.
Now ya go me thinking about checking the timing again. :?:
That's why I don't mixing any thing with a y......
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Russ what cam you on?
Stock y8, but using a A6 crank and pulley w/ y8 timing covers.
Now ya go me thinking about checking the timing again. :?:
That's why I don't mixing any thing with a y......
Y8/y7 cranks are junk (only have one oil hole in rod journal) and I did not want any problems :noel:
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Russ what cam you on?
Stock y8, but using a A6 crank and pulley w/ y8 timing covers.
Now ya go me thinking about checking the timing again. :?:
cam pulley?
cuz im running an A6 crank, HF crank pulley, and Y8 everything else.
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Russ what cam you on?
Stock y8, but using a A6 crank and pulley w/ y8 timing covers.
Now ya go me thinking about checking the timing again. :?:
cam pulley?
cuz im running an A6 crank, HF crank pulley, and Y8 everything else.
Adjustable z6 cam gear, I set this up original the same way as with y8 head w/ z6 adj. cam gear with z6 crank and pulley, but with z6 timing cover, cam timing set at 4.5deg and it worked great.
I set up the same way but I wonder if timing marks on y8 covers and z6 covers are at the same angle.
I guess I'll look at my spare covers.
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The marks on the covers are always for 0*BTDC. The crank pullies, however, have different marks for different engines based on their specified base timing. I always match base timing to the head design, unless radical changes to the head chamber volume have been made.
A6 crank pulleys have the middle mark at 18*BTDC.
Z6 crank pulleys have the middle mark at 16*BTDC.
Y8 crank pulleys have the middle mark at 12*BTDC.
All D16 and D15 (and I am fairly sure that all D-series engines) have the same timing marks on the oil pumps and covers, as they are all indexed from the TDC position of piston #1.
You will want to set the base timing in your ECU to match the base timing mark (middle of the three clustered marks) on the crank pulley you are using. Since you are using a Y8 head (an assumption based on your stating that you are using a stock Y8 cam), I would recommend sticking with 12*BTDC as your base timing. If you are using an A6 or Z6 crank pulley, you will have to scribe new timing marks on the pulley. This is easily done with a good set of dividers. Set the dividers to match the distance between the clustered marks. Each one of those marks denotes 2 crank degrees. For an A6 pulley, the stock marks will be @ 20*, 18* and 16* BTDC. To get to 12*, you will want to scribe another 3 lines TOWARDS the 0*BTDC mark on the pulley. I also recommend making a small notch on the pulley with a triangle shaped needle file. This will always show up on the crank pulley with a timing light. and is very easy to feel for, more so than the stock lines. If you have a Z6 crank pulley, you would do the same thing, except that the Z6 crank pulley marks are at 18*, 16* and 14*, so you would only need to scribe a further 2 lines and notch the 12* line.
I would also recommend using a Y8 crank pulley. They are a much superior design, IMO. Yes, they are heavier, but in the cases of all the pulleys, the mass is nearly centered and it does not effect the rotational inertia too much. The reason why I suggest using the Y8 pulley is because it is a much more modern update and should dampen harmonics much more effectively.
Since I don't know what the base timing is set to in your bin, I can't offer any insight into what is going on with the ignition timing, but I can only strongly suggest that you ensure that the base timing in the map matches the base timing set with the distributor in order to ensure that the timing you are changing in the timing maps has the desired effect. Running with the timing centered on the A6 pulley with anything other than 18*BTDC as your base timing is going to lead to an unintended ignition advance of the amount of the difference between the bin timing and physical ignition timing.
I hope that is all clear enough.
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Some good suggestions, I'll look into them.
The y8 crank pulley is out of the equation, I'm using a early A6 crank pulley (smaller nose). :noel:
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I hate those smaller snout cranks! But, at least you should now have a plan on how to make sure that your ignition timing is correct. If you set the timing to the middle mark on the A6 pulley, your ignition timing is likely advanced by up to 6*. That's not so good for a boosted engine . . .
I'm sure you'll figure it out now, though.
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I hate those smaller snout cranks! But, at least you should now have a plan on how to make sure that your ignition timing is correct. If you set the timing to the middle mark on the A6 pulley, your ignition timing is likely advanced by up to 6*. That's not so good for a boosted engine . . .
I'm sure you'll figure it out now, though.
That now makes more sense. :noel:
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shit. might take me a minute to comprehend that. but i have the same setup, lol. think its an HF pulley on Y8 motor.... shit.
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shit. might take me a minute to comprehend that. but i have the same setup, lol. think its an HF pulley on Y8 motor.... shit.
I put the cam back to 6deg advance (b/c the block was decked 0.020")
Marked the crank pulley at 12deg BTDC w/ a file and color with a pink sharpe.
Set the dizzy timing for 12 BTDC using a timing light, with connector jumped and engine warmed up.
Then setup base timing in crome pro to 12deg.
She runs better, still have little startup problem, but I'll tackle that problem later. :noel:
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shit. might take me a minute to comprehend that. but i have the same setup, lol. think its an HF pulley on Y8 motor.... shit.
Double check what the base timing is for the Hf. I don't think it is the same as the Si. I've never paid much attention to Hf specs. LOL!
I'm glad to head that it is running better now, dude. Timing stuff fries my brain all the time. People get on my case for being so anal about it sometimes, but, it's either right or wrong, and I'd prefer to know that it is right.
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Got the head off no broken pistons, but I think the crappy ignition timing up top help fuck up the rings.
I was getting 30,90,30,30 compression just before I tore it apart. O0
Have the head apart, haven't done this in a long while, glad I did.
Found 2 exhaust rocker pads worn too much, so I'll have to replace them.
Took the valves out for inspection and a couple of them a little too much wear for comfort, so I'll replace with new ones soon.
While all this all apart I'll replace with new v-clamp for the down pipe, repair the turbo manifold, and reinforce the elbow for the WG.
New rings and maybe splurge for new piston, or reuse what I have the cylinders all look good, no scratches.
So I'll should have all this back together and looking by min Aug. :noel:
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DO WORK!
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Since everybody like carnage pictures:
piston #1
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG707.jpg%3Ft%3D1343426608&hash=a987facce5e68d36715ab5e3144baefa7e13c4cf)
piston#2 looks good
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG708.jpg%3Ft%3D1343426611&hash=f811c436d1cb596e165185891a2eca2e04a001b5)
piston #3
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG709.jpg%3Ft%3D1343426622&hash=49fead473b89391adeaa4ce68f174eb2ab08dafc)
piston #4
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi653.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu254%2F92CXyD%2FIMG710.jpg%3Ft%3D1343426626&hash=91e22c4235e0b198429be4e1e203d6dd45a58b47)
All I have is a used set of vitara pistons and rings to slap back in this.
Later I may have to get some forge pistons and new rings.
I have a set of spare std size rod bearing to put in this, the rods look perfect. :noel:
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Give up. Put a stock motor and call it a day. What is this motor number 8? Man dude. U would be better off with no supercharger and just a FIXED turbo exhaust side turbo like a normal person would run. No need to bushwack a wooded trail to the top when u can take a paved road to the top
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Speaking of hills, this reminds me of Sisyphus.
The single turbo would be a great idea if you get the VGT stuff working. Get it working, THEN add the SC if it doesn't spool fast enough for a FWD car.
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Damn that sucks... any idea why?
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Damn that sucks... any idea why?
Yeah, mechanical timing was off which affects my ignition timing.
Hitting 29psi with wrong base ignition is no bueno. :noel:
But it was fun ;DDD
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So just how much timing did you end up with exactly?
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So just how much timing did you end up with exactly?
The cam was advanced 10deg (crank timing) on my way to Seattle.
After some tuning with, while using the wrong basemap, we had it at advance 18deg (crank timing).
When I got got home to Casper and read what The_Beaver had explained about cyl. head casting and timing. (previousely post in this thread)
I put the cam back to 6deg advance (b/c the block was decked 0.020")
Marked the crank pulley at 12deg BTDC w/ a file and color with a pink sharpe.
Set the dizzy timing for 12 BTDC using a timing light, with connector jumped and engine warmed up.
Then setup base timing in crome pro to 12deg.
She ran stronger, but the damage was already. :noel:
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Give up. Put a stock motor and call it a day. What is this motor number 8? Man dude. U would be better off with no supercharger and just a FIXED turbo exhaust side turbo like a normal person would run. No need to bushwack a wooded trail to the top when u can take a paved road to the top
this^^^^ just concentrate on a turbo setup.. much easier and more reliable russ.
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Give up. Put a stock motor and call it a day. What is this motor number 8? Man dude. U would be better off with no supercharger and just a FIXED turbo exhaust side turbo like a normal person would run. No need to bushwack a wooded trail to the top when u can take a paved road to the top
this^^^^ just concentrate on a turbo setup.. much easier and more reliable russ.
No, I did not want easier, I want to go through the pain of figuring all this out. :noel:
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that's the attitude to have gipper!... i know you will figure it out soon enough.. do work!
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that's the attitude to have gipper!... i know you will figure it out soon enough.. do work!
Nothing that was ever easy was worth doing!
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I have to give you credit man, You dont give up! this thread delivers carnage on almost every page i love it!
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I have to give you credit man, You dont give up! this thread delivers carnage on almost every page i love it!
Thanks ;DDD
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Bump....... Since its been almost a year since this thread has been posted in.
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No turbo, no fux.
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29 psi. I just wanted to see the power/torque curve of that thing. Fuck peak numbers.
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You should just bolt all of that nonsense to an F engine. They give zero fucks, and will probably last longer than D series have in this application.
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I don't think its the block thaats the problem..... Think its the person assembling them :P
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My D-blocks are not the problem for sure.
My lack of tuning skills are part of the problem.
I know have 1200cc inj, 4-bar and slowly tuning to 30psi on the street.
I just found out that there is a new dyno in town, may try it.
Or may go to where Daspoop works and see if we can get my car on it.
The Dyno he works with are built for Dwarf cars, so my car may be too wide.
I DD it everyday now, deliver pizza in it 3 nights a week.
And took it to a car gathering and surprised a lot of v-8 when I pop the hood and rev, w/ s/c engauged.
I may need to replace the He351ve, a little play shaft play.
All in all I'm having fun with it. :noel:
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This thread needs more hoodrat shit. Glad to hear it's alive again.
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Need new rippers!
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All in all I'm having fun with it. :noel:
How could you not have fun with 30psi on a twincharged/holset setup? Question is, how can you drive it...
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All in all I'm having fun with it. :noel:
How could you not have fun with 30psi on a twincharged/holset setup? Question is, how can you drive it...
Easy to drive, just keep the s/c disengaged, until I want to piss off a Coal Rolling Diesel or Corvette owner. :noel:
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They'd go home and kill themselves getting their asses kicked by a jap single cam four cylinder.
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I know you been working on this thing, wheres the updates! :noel:
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I know you been working on this thing, wheres the updates! :noel:
Ya been working on it slowly, but I may just start a ver 2.0 thread to start.