:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: Aero on March 11, 2009, 04:02:20 AM
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Here is my project. Its back to not running again thanks to a machine shop mis-communication but here is what I did this summer. Some of you may find it useful, especially if interested in the Holset VGT turbos. I'm sure I will be updating it slowly. Some of it was copy past, so if it sounds funny, you know why.
It was a pretty big project this summer, correcting a lot of DSM style little breakdowns and previous owner fuck ups as well as some of my own.
Really trying to clean the car up and make it nice again. Unfortunately I ran out of time to do the paint and body work. Got the typical severe hrysler clearcoat fade.
The basics of the setup:
95 AWD
Stock trans
ACT 2600
94 Galant 2.4l
Eagle/wiseco 8.3:1
1000CC delphi's.
Whinebro 255HP
Stock 2g head/cams/intake
Megasquirt 2E 2.01
Stock exhaust manifold, with HMT style adapter to fit the turbo with included CDM 38mm gate
E85
For the moment, no intercooler and 8" of 3" pipe for the exhaust
Now the interesting part, VGT turbo, Holset HE351VE from a 6.7 Cummins.
Housing variable from something very small, 4-6cm^-25cm^2
The stock actuator on the turbo is an electrically controlled actuator normally controlled by the ECM. Unfortunately I haven't figured out what kind of signal the ECM sends to the unit to position it. My experimental solution is a 14b wastegate actuator on the VGT rack arm. I didn't think it would work worth a shit, but so far its working pretty damn well.
Turbo compressor and turbine wheel dimensions.
Wheel measurements
Turbine
EX 2.357
IND 2.755
Compressor
EX 3.38
IND 2.37
Compressor is as close as I can measure since its a 7 bladed wheel. Measurements similar to the large 6bladed HX40.
I'll start with turbo pictures since its out of the ordinary.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHE351V%2FIMG_0007.jpg&hash=452bad220a0694ca88314561b00ef3f9b3ceaebe)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHE351V%2FIMG_0009.jpg&hash=efa07ac5dfe39e3a716c3f3d922dba9de91f790b)
VGT closed
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHE351V%2FIMG_0003.jpg&hash=636826f2f83ce2406e139e081d72363b51f9cde9)
VGT open
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHE351V%2FIMG_0002.jpg&hash=c42c3da672a1bccd97a6a21e6554181fbe6ad517)
Turbine wheel and VGT vanes.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHE351V%2FIMG_0005.jpg&hash=4e013332cd65ebdbf9ca8c3fa9ab4217901ead3c)
Compressor cover
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHE351V%2FIMG_0011.jpg&hash=59bf065f844c330e066fe86fcee8f7841e96fe49)
VGT actuator
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHE351V%2FIMG_0006.jpg&hash=3f6c359aeb1f20cd34925d01f65f7556df61ad1e)
Actuator internals
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi238.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff261%2Ffe3tcourier%2FholsetHE351V%2FHolset-VGT-Actuator1.jpg&hash=24302217873fb6687f3645156096504d48c1b47f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi238.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff261%2Ffe3tcourier%2FholsetHE351V%2FHolset-VGT-Actuator2.jpg&hash=facd865833d4aad0962784d69063a1ab01f52d81)
Compared to a stock 90-94 Eclipse 5spd 14b turbo also what the actuator I used came off of.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8021422.jpg&hash=1370aac2bb351dd578c61bed74bb64c9ac8563e1)
Exhaust housing compared to a BEP housing for an HX40 and my ghetto adapter.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8021411.jpg&hash=75de783b7fc645f89f8491c5393a2abe3bf3a57f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8021410.jpg&hash=c704042d447fa8a61c4c03edc6e0ef7137485d6d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7090520.jpg&hash=71f0be1beeb8357b6273a352095ce6480c834fac)
Continued..
Fitment with the stock radiator is very tight slightly better than it looks the rad isn't bolted on the top and is sitting back. Fabricated solid front motor mount out of something similar to nylon or delrin to help wheelhop and prevent contact with the radiator.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7090514.jpg&hash=898ec50b49e50672a493c357a7123c383aa6e4af)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7090513.jpg&hash=24a5b7c12ef69b3206635e9f2d124e54db2b0510)
My assistant for the whole thing...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7090526.jpg&hash=3786926f87ac36029411f593661dc51682ee6126)
How the wastegate actuator is attached to the turbo. It passes through the front motor mount due to packaging. It is from the stock 1g 5spd turbo, and is a ~9-10psi actuator.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8280672.jpg&hash=18e6d46a07b1dd840c799c9bf44e7618129b2138)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8280671.jpg&hash=092be0dc2f5d245e4e61bb84f0c520bf689c2a52)
Initial results.
The actuator holds the VGT closed until 6-7 psi, then spool slows down. Its weird, driving normally you can't really hear much exhaust note wise the only thing you hear is the turbine wheel whistling, keep in mind this is through 8" of exhaust. Once it hits 6-7 lbs, the note changes totally, the rack is open fully by ~10-11 lbs I beleive. It sounds sort of like an electric cutout opening, but not as loud. I think even though it has a huge hotside the vanes still help quiet it down, but make it whistle more. Go under and overpass and it sounds like a jet flying by.
Here is a log from ~70mph cruise in 5th gear showing the transient response. 70kpa, to 9psi in about .95 seconds at ~3000-3100rpm.
It spools a good 1000-1200 rpm faster than the small 8 blade HX40 in the .55A/R bullseye housing I had on the car before. Even with the VGT open fully which is somewhere far above 1A/R. Over 3500rpm or so the boost keeps climbing, by 4400 rpm it reaches 24lbs and climbing rapidly. I'm really glad I included the external gate.
This is before connecting the external gate to hold boost down.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2Flog.jpg&hash=054a8a4b7b88bc4a7697d619303430a51fc93ff7)
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Some more pictures of all the work I did this summer. Correcting a lot of stuff that has been messed up since I got the car. It was pretty extensive.
Many of the parts installed too.
Homemade teflon shif bushings.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8050634.jpg&hash=9b5a967c03d97ce9266908c60039109b2a149c7a)
Old dash. Last owner got pissed and punched it I guess.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7090523.jpg&hash=1618670363af568ae108cbd2086f42448da1b453)
The mess under the dash and carpet.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8011409.jpg&hash=a1295f09cd1e7b78f30dd2b74015d898ad9ac5df)
New and old steering wheel
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8021416.jpg&hash=c84ad28cfff0e75ae8f510e9872dcb60d2ef9aa6)
Couple of free parts cars. Damn ricers, luckily they weren't turbo cars
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8021412.jpg&hash=beb3a30432b50a0005cad303755e31746af95286)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8021413.jpg&hash=4f45669d6c734b5b7dce92340660d7e61fa2bc99)
I painted/dyed the interior panels, got tired of the grey. New carpet
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8090635.jpg&hash=ba46710ea0bdb73804a704772318f8a688e90bd9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8050633.jpg&hash=d2e1814f77962dd912087e48c2fa2586fd5d02f7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8140650.jpg&hash=e4eeded90df3099fa357a7e6bafe5dac4bc7b2a5)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8140652.jpg&hash=8d8708a3ad8261c1c4c79e3f8e559921c9c673f5)
Had to repaint airbag cover because the humidity made it turn out funny.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8140653.jpg&hash=7d5e53f659f0d0c316891555985d1efb70dc8a3d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8150657.jpg&hash=3453816c5a8652a892e9d49c877e4746ef055e91)
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More of the parts I changed.
Digital EGT and water temp gauges. They work pretty well mount easily and are cheap. Peak hold, and compatible with all sorts of sensor types. If anyone is interested www.auberins.com (http://) (http://)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8011408.jpg&hash=9ce681c1bff1549860dbac481cd6a034a352474e)
Warranty replacements for a broken rear coilover spring.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8011403.jpg&hash=b97ca8f67b77bc059979d7976d1f698e7a1d4004)
AFPR
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7170528.jpg&hash=265a61fec123f21059339379c01f5d012d02878d)
Delphi 1000cc injectors
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7100527.jpg&hash=b4f8157707b460dd1a4a7c47ec5431c4eefadb9a)
Another one of manifold adapter and turbo before finished
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7090516.jpg&hash=00d94e54037a1929262e2b214fc6546eaf37b2bf)
Unfinished motor back from the machine shop.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7210533.jpg&hash=0cdc3f3b54eda7afb67f97f97a1bbf2bc95e3502)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7210532.jpg&hash=b4f3e1b9396d4e6c67c712384f3d17d0af840f1e)
New front cover/oil pump
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7210534.jpg&hash=1939dbef318c26e06fe313cbf522bf26bec30956)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7210535.jpg&hash=87fc471442a0d8d9554fd27acdc24190dd495308)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7230537.jpg&hash=c7425c4c7e78f7801a69c1d62c97d9e968322e7c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7240539.jpg&hash=5dacaa734aa5ee26c1fb4c35895869c2f8da0949)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7250542.jpg&hash=02e1d382205fd565e6043a245296614af1b268c5)
Short shifter
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP7090525.jpg&hash=f9238d489ff4b8564575ad9c97739cc48e01177b)
The exhaust and wastegate dump peeking out from under the hood. You can see how short it is all 8" of it. lol
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FCar2%2FP8210666.jpg&hash=cc752142930d38421fc269f7a2db9f0ace8bea5d)
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Old dash. Last owner got pissed and punched it I guess.
A DSM owner get frustrated with his car? Never! I also love the HMT short shifter :P
So when do you think you'll have the block rebuilt & cranking boost? BTW I recall seeing someone point that company out for EGT & temp stuff. I'm using the SSI-4 for reading thermocouples and thermistors, but permanent digital displays would be real nice nice.
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Actually that isn't an HMT shifter. I'm not sure what brand it is. Got it with another DSM that I had. Its just had the top cut off, which I hate the nice heavy momo(another freebie from another DSM) shift knob doesn't like to stay on no matter how hard its tightened. It is MUCH shorter than stock, mainly from the added throw below the pivot.
When its back on the road I'm not sure. I think I'm going to have to find another place to keep it and tear into it. The current place isn't woring out well. I'm hoping I can do a bit on spring break next week, but I've said that before too. lol
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i haven't done shit this spring break
glad to see the build move on over. keep us updated. any track plans in the future?
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any track plans in the future?
Definitely. As soon as I get it running well enough. I tried to take it once the week before the bearing went but after passing tech realized I had a bulge in the tread on the front tire and no spare. :(
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Your running again? Kick ass, any plans to control te VGT with some logic rather than just a wastegate actuator?
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Your running again? Kick ass, any plans to control te VGT with some logic rather than just a wastegate actuator?
I wish. I see how my post made it seem that way though. Woops.
As far as controlling it another way. It is a possibility.
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Awesome project. What fuel do you plan on running?
I noticed the oil pan gasket. They tend to leak quite often. They come from the factory RTV'd, and is all I've ever used to avoid the leaks assosiated with the aftermarket cork gaskets. Hopefully it works out for you!! Can't wait to see some numbers.
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Awesome project. What fuel do you plan on running?
I noticed the oil pan gasket. They tend to leak quite often. They come from the factory RTV'd, and is all I've ever used to avoid the leaks assosiated with the aftermarket cork gaskets. Hopefully it works out for you!! Can't wait to see some numbers.
It has been run and will be run on E85 solely. The only time it won't be is if I can't get it, or if its too clod to get it to start.
I've used about everything, cork, RTV only, cork and RTV, rubber. They all seem to leak.
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Well I moved all the pictures to break the links to the other site. Now I need to go back and edit the links here and in a lot of other places. Dammit.
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Well I moved all the pictures to break the links to the other site. Now I need to go back and edit the links here and in a lot of other places. Dammit.
Put the Real HMT logo from the top of the page in for all the old links at the old hmt, ;)
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I'm trying to help out with the vgt control... I have a little data, but until we can figure out exactly what the module needs to be told... I dont know what we can do except make a new moduel to control it. Maybe something with a egt input to pop it to full duty if egt exceeds 1500? Also - something with tps settings (i posted about this idea on turbotalk too) so at cruise - its open. or at least maybe a dip switch or something that puts it at full open for highway driving.
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I have one of these turbos sitting around as well, picked it up to investigate it more. I have an HE341VE and it is much simpler but it's a smaller turbo I think. The 341 simply has a DC motor and a potentiometer like a TPS to give position feedback, so I'm sure I could control it. With the 351 like you all said it has a board built in which is kind of frustrating, I tried pulling the actuator apart but couldn't get the board out to get to the motor. Do I have to cut off the plastic stubs that are melted down to the board to get it out or is it just glued in? The edges will come up a little but I don't want to break the board. If I could at least get to the motor I could add in direct wires for the motor and feedback sensor in order to build a new motor controller (hopefully), but even better if Holset's controller could be figured out. Holset is very tight on information on that. I'm a EE student but still pretty novice at circuits, I suppose I could attempt to trace out the circuit but then I still would need to know what some of the components on the board are as they have no markings.
The other option would be to make a new actuator to bolt on. This would be a bit of work obviously.
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I have one of these turbos sitting around as well, picked it up to investigate it more. I have an HE341VE and it is much simpler but it's a smaller turbo I think. The 341 simply has a DC motor and a potentiometer like a TPS to give position feedback, so I'm sure I could control it. With the 351 like you all said it has a board built in which is kind of frustrating, I tried pulling the actuator apart but couldn't get the board out to get to the motor. Do I have to cut off the plastic stubs that are melted down to the board to get it out or is it just glued in? The edges will come up a little but I don't want to break the board. If I could at least get to the motor I could add in direct wires for the motor and feedback sensor in order to build a new motor controller (hopefully), but even better if Holset's controller could be figured out. Holset is very tight on information on that. I'm a EE student but still pretty novice at circuits, I suppose I could attempt to trace out the circuit but then I still would need to know what some of the components on the board are as they have no markings.
The other option would be to make a new actuator to bolt on. This would be a bit of work obviously.
Some measurements and pictures of the HE341Ve.
http://www.turbotalk.org/bb/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=329 (http://www.turbotalk.org/bb/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=329)
I don't know about the 341, but in the 351 the board in the actuator is supposed to be a 4 layer PCB, so tracing circuits is going to be pretty hard.
The motor in the 351 is also supposed to be a brushless DC motor, so it will require some kind of driver to run it. There are some people who have been working on controllers, hopefully someone gets one to work. :yes:
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So I'm moving back home for the summer to work on the farm again. Will be towing the car home there. It gets boring there when I'm not working so I'll definitely be finally getting started on it again very soon. :yes: And lots of stuff to play with turbo's on. :P
Motivation has been an issue the last few months. lol
I hate dialup internet though. :o
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hmm i've never seen a DSM 2.4L block with the large allen plugs in the deck surface. Is this normal on the 2.4L from the Galant? Is it a DOHC or SOHC block?
cool shit
need the vgt-ness
phil
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Glad to see your getting this thing going again, You inspired me to pick up a H351VE so I have on sitting here going into my build...would love to see some guys figure out the vgt acctuator too, Im figuring on using a wastegate actuator like you have as a temp solution, thanks for putting up all this info!
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hmm i've never seen a DSM 2.4L block with the large allen plugs in the deck surface. Is this normal on the 2.4L from the Galant? Is it a DOHC or SOHC block?
cool shit
need the vgt-ness
phil
Those plugs for sealing off some oil drainback holes that are in a 4g64 block that originally came witha SOHC head. They don't match up with the DOHC 4g63 head. If you get a DOHC engine they arent required as the hole is missing or in a different location. Its been a while so I can't remember the specific engines that dont need it.
Found a picture from another guys engine that shows why they need plugged. Plug toward the top left of cyl #2.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.extremeevolutions.com%2Fblock%26amp%3Bpistons.jpg&hash=613bea0e131cfe2000ea4961ddb79dba51543a07)
Glad to see your getting this thing going again, You inspired me to pick up a H351VE so I have on sitting here going into my build...would love to see some guys figure out the vgt acctuator too, Im figuring on using a wastegate actuator like you have as a temp solution, thanks for putting up all this info!
Thanks. :)
There are some people who are working on them, not sure how the progress has been coming though.
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Car got trailered to my parents a couple days ago. Will be getting started very soon. Hopefully get the engine out before the busy time of harvest and at the machine shop so they can work on it while I'm busy.
List of things to come:
Evo3 intake manifold as long as I can find one soon enough, shorter runners and a bit different design that works without porting on a 2g head port.
Intercooler install, planning on an Air/Water setup to simplify intake piping. Hard to fit air/air piping with the turbo that's on there.
Secondary fuel rail for small injectors to make the car more drivable, using 240cc/min injectors.
Most likely a second walbro 255hp to keep up with E85 flow rates on 1200cc/min+ total injector capacity.
Paint and body work
That's the major plans.
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body work sucks
have fun
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Finally had time to start on it. Engine is out. Planning on taking it up to the machine shop monday or tuesday.
:yes:
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in for the updates :D
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Aero do you happen to know if a h1c 18cm housing will fit on a Hx-35 with the 20somthing cm housing?
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Aero do you happen to know if a h1c 18cm housing will fit on a Hx-35 with the 20somthing cm housing?
I know the bullseye housings for the H1c and Hx35 are the same. So unless its some really odd H1c then it should work.
What did the Hx35 come off of? Thats an unusually large housing for them, usually the big ones were from the older H1c's at least on the dodge trucks thats the case.
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this was one of my favorite projects.. get it back on the road. variable geometry turbos are fucking tits
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Aero, ive read your thread here and the stuff on dsmtuners.org (please shoot me, so many idiots there...)
What is your honest opinion on how well VTG in the holset 351's can control boost? I mean assuming you have full electronic control over the actuator, which is not really that much of a hurdle, do you think that controlling boost pressures in the 25-35psi range with less than 3psi spike or drop is feasible? This question is very relevant to my interests as I am purchasing a turbo for the colt soon, stock block/head 4g63 6bolt, probably run of the mill BC 272's etc etc.
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l
Aero, ive read your thread here and the stuff on dsmtuners.org (please shoot me, so many idiots there...)
What is your honest opinion on how well VTG in the holset 351's can control boost? I mean assuming you have full electronic control over the actuator, which is not really that much of a hurdle, do you think that controlling boost pressures in the 25-35psi range with less than 3psi spike or drop is feasible? This question is very relevant to my interests as I am purchasing a turbo for the colt soon, stock block/head 4g63 6bolt, probably run of the mill BC 272's etc etc.
IMO NOT possible. With the VGT open as far as it will physically go(which happens anytime over ~8-10psi with the wastegate actuator moving it) I hit 24psi by ~4400 rpm at WOT. The boost curve looks like a parabola at that point climbing at an exponential rate.
Just think of it like a turbo with a fixed 25cm housing(which is the limit of how far it will open), several guys on here run an H1c with a 18 or 21cm housing and they require a wastegate it just spools slower.
Since you will have a 2l it should occur at slightly higher RPM but even if it happened at ~5100 you still have a LOT of powerband left. You will need the external wastegate too. There is just too much exhaust energy relative to the diesel engine they came off of.
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lAero, ive read your thread here and the stuff on dsmtuners.org (please shoot me, so many idiots there...)
What is your honest opinion on how well VTG in the holset 351's can control boost? I mean assuming you have full electronic control over the actuator, which is not really that much of a hurdle, do you think that controlling boost pressures in the 25-35psi range with less than 3psi spike or drop is feasible? This question is very relevant to my interests as I am purchasing a turbo for the colt soon, stock block/head 4g63 6bolt, probably run of the mill BC 272's etc etc.
IMO NOT possible. With the VGT open as far as it will physically go(which happens anytime over ~8-10psi with the wastegate actuator moving it) I hit 24psi by ~4400 rpm at WOT. The boost curve looks like a parabola at that point climbing at an exponential rate.
Just think of it like a turbo with a fixed 25cm housing(which is the limit of how far it will open), several guys on here run an H1c with a 18 or 21cm housing and they require a wastegate it just spools slower.
Since you will have a 2l it should occur at slightly higher RPM but even if it happened at ~5100 you still have a LOT of powerband left. You will need the external wastegate too. There is just too much exhaust energy relative to the diesel engine they came off of.
Thank you thats exactly what I wanted to know.
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Even in diesels, once you have any mods, you start to need an external gate to control the boost. They seem to continue to make power to 48-50psi, but that is about as far as I would push them.
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Figured I should make an update.
Finally making a bit of progress here. The machine shop admitted their error and are going to take care of the stuff related to the spun bearing.
Unfortunately upon disassembly of the shortblock they found cracks in all 4 wiseco piston skirts. At first the shop manager thought it was from detonation until I told him that was very unlikely given the very conservative tune, AFR's, Timing, boost, and E85 for much of the pushing the motor received. Stock pistons would have taken the abuse these things took without breaking a sweat. He went and looked at them himself confirmed for me that the cracks aren't in the typical area for ones caused by detonation.
Did a bit of research and it seems Wiseco had some 4g63/64 castings back when I bought them that have had this kind of problem. Just a casting flaw, or weak area. So I got a hold of someone at Wiseco and if I send them the pistons and they verify that its not caused by detonation they are willing to get me a new set for 1/2 price. Which considering I've had them since 2003-2004 and they have 22k on them, sounds like pretty decent customer service to me.
So once they get them I have a few decisions to make. I've been considering a bump in compression from the 8.3:1 these were to something higher since I will likely not be running this on anything but E85 most of the time.
So thats where she sits for now.
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Not bad of an update. Go with 9 flat for comp.
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Not bad of an update. Go with 9 flat for comp.
Were this a big port head, I would disagree. But small ports dont seem to knock like the big port heads do. Slight combustion chamber differences.
Aero, a question. My cousin has a narrow-block 4g64 bottom end from a 96 galant I might be able to score, what is the going price for such?
Im building a small-port head/6-bolt block hybrid for the Colt now, just cause I got a sweet RVR intake manifold and I wanna spool the 14b at 1200rpms lol.
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and I wanna spool the 14b at 1200rpms lol.
/miata.net
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Not bad of an update. Go with 9 flat for comp.
Were this a big port head, I would disagree. But small ports dont seem to knock like the big port heads do. Slight combustion chamber differences.
Aero, a question. My cousin has a narrow-block 4g64 bottom end from a 96 galant I might be able to score, what is the going price for such?
Im building a small-port head/6-bolt block hybrid for the Colt now, just cause I got a sweet RVR intake manifold and I wanna spool the 14b at 1200rpms lol.
Are you comparing them with the same ECU mapping? Is it the head itself or are you comparing them with the aggressive 1g timing map?
I have been thinking 9-9.3, thats what the only off the shelf wiseco piston that will fit my block is and is likely the range I'll use. Otherwise I've got to order custom was thinking about 10:1 but will probably go around 9. I'm not really concerned about knock anyway. I'll be running E85 almost exclusively.
This is kind of an interesting thread showing the effectiveness of E85 in a 4G. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/323959-my-low-cost-high-compression-daily-driver-e85.html (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/323959-my-low-cost-high-compression-daily-driver-e85.html) 12:1 compression 14psi on a stock G4CS bottom end. E85 is fun stuff if you can get it. He was at high altitude though.
I'm not sure on the price for a 4g64 bottom end. I got mine out of a 94 galant from a salvage place, already pulled complete engine for $400. That was back in 2003-2004. Thats the only experience I have.
The RVR I'm familiar with is similar to an Evo3 intake manifold. Is this that one? I'm semi looking for a "cyclone" intake manifold. Really want one but I'm broke at the moment lol.
My 2.4 definitely spooled the Big 16g pretty quick. IIRC 17psi at around 2500 rpm in 3rd. That was before I had the ability to tune, so who knows what would have happened then. SAFC ::) That much lowend torque in a colt sounds like no traction to me lol.
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Not bad of an update. Go with 9 flat for comp.
Were this a big port head, I would disagree. But small ports dont seem to knock like the big port heads do. Slight combustion chamber differences.
Aero, a question. My cousin has a narrow-block 4g64 bottom end from a 96 galant I might be able to score, what is the going price for such?
Im building a small-port head/6-bolt block hybrid for the Colt now, just cause I got a sweet RVR intake manifold and I wanna spool the 14b at 1200rpms lol.
Are you comparing them with the same ECU mapping? Is it the head itself or are you comparing them with the aggressive 1g timing map?
I have been thinking 9-9.3, thats what the only off the shelf wiseco piston that will fit my block is and is likely the range I'll use. Otherwise I've got to order custom was thinking about 10:1 but will probably go around 9. I'm not really concerned about knock anyway. I'll be running E85 almost exclusively.
This is kind of an interesting thread showing the effectiveness of E85 in a 4G. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/323959-my-low-cost-high-compression-daily-driver-e85.html (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/323959-my-low-cost-high-compression-daily-driver-e85.html) 12:1 compression 14psi on a stock G4CS bottom end. E85 is fun stuff if you can get it. He was at high altitude though.
I'm not sure on the price for a 4g64 bottom end. I got mine out of a 94 galant from a salvage place, already pulled complete engine for $400. That was back in 2003-2004. Thats the only experience I have.
The RVR I'm familiar with is similar to an Evo3 intake manifold. Is this that one? I'm semi looking for a "cyclone" intake manifold. Really want one but I'm broke at the moment lol.
My 2.4 definitely spooled the Big 16g pretty quick. IIRC 17psi at around 2500 rpm in 3rd. That was before I had the ability to tune, so who knows what would have happened then. SAFC ::) That much lowend torque in a colt sounds like no traction to me lol.
I dunno, all the 2g's ive tuned, regardless of what was used to tune them, didnt seem to knock as easliy as the bigport 1g heads. Reading spark plugs mind you. I dont trust the knock sensors/system on dsms.
You wont see as big a power gain going from 9:1 to 10:1, as you would from 7.8:1 to 8.5:1. Combustion chamber shape, amongst other things.
Ive been wanting to give E85 a go in something, but there's only 1 pump in town and they could stop serving it at any time.
The RVR is the same as the evo3, except the TB port is 6mm smaller. Port it out and run a 1g 4g63 n/a TB, makes a nice combo.
Im not worried about traction. Limit straps and drag radials are my friends. Id like to take a shot at the csm fwd 14b record this summer, we'll see how it goes.
and I wanna spool the 14b at 1200rpms lol.
/miata.net
My LS integra spooled a s16g with my manifold at 2600rpm, boost threshold at 1500rpm w/ compressor surge. Watch me.
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So once they get them I have a few decisions to make. I've been considering a bump in compression from the 8.3:1 these were to something higher since I will likely not be running this on anything but E85 most of the time.
So thats where she sits for now.
Considering you're almost 10 octane points higher, I'd say at least try for 9:1. I know some people doing E85 in Hondas with >9.5:1 and lots of boost. I know of one guy with a simple piston/rod GSR at 9.8:1 who's daily-driving it at 16psi. That's with a fairly large borg-warner s256 with a .70ar housing. I don't think you need to get too high if you keep that holset. You've already got quick boost with that turbo, so compression would just me maximizing each pound of air you suck in.
I'd say go with those half-price OTS pistons and make sure you get the right bearings. :yes: BTW I'm excited to see any decent logs with the various a/r's if you keep that holset. My research has shown each halving of the A/R usually gets ~30% faster spool rpm, and it would be cool to have concrete info.
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I'd say go with those half-price OTS pistons and make sure you get the right bearings. :yes: BTW I'm excited to see any decent logs with the various a/r's if you keep that holset. My research has shown each halving of the A/R usually gets ~30% faster spool rpm, and it would be cool to have concrete info.
That link I posted above he was running 12+:1 and 14lbs.
As long as the shop verifies that it doesn't need bored again I'll probably be going with the OTS 9-9.3's. If it needs bored again then I will have to have custom ones made.
As far as the Holset I'm definitely keeping it. I'm planning on hooking up my other 4 bar MAP so I can get some detailed backpressure logs with the turbo.
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Wow dude. I feel dumber for reading that thread. The fucktard OP cut up a perfectly good cylinder head, because he "doesnt trust claying the motor", and when questioned about it replied "why? are they hard to get?" What a dipshit.
When you have "dsm-tunars wiseman" telling people that cylinder pressures dont kill pistons, well. That just speaks for itself.
This has nothing to do with you or your build of course, I just wanted to point out that forum is full of idiots.
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I remember reading long ago( in my DSM days) that the cyclone intake only flows 3 cfm more than a stock USDM 4G63 intake. I bought a cyclone engine for my 93 TSi back in the day and it didn't seem any different. Bushur has the intake shit dialed in for EVOs, Im sure they have a sulution for DSMs too.
P.S. hurry the fuck up and get you car back together ;)
Chris
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I remember reading long ago( in my DSM days) that the cyclone intake only flows 3 cfm more than a stock USDM 4G63 intake. I bought a cyclone engine for my 93 TSi back in the day and it didn't seem any different. Bushur has the intake shit dialed in for EVOs, Im sure they have a sulution for DSMs too.
P.S. hurry the fuck up and get you car back together ;)
Chris
The cyclone intake is a dual runner intake. It doesn't flow more up top, thats not the idea behind it. Although it should flow more than a 2g intake. It was put on the JDM 4g63's with the large port heads to help counteract the loss of torque from the large head ports. The keep one closed off at low rpm or boost and it helps add quite a bit of torque down low from increased velocity and charge motion in the cylinder. Many people say it helps spool the turbo also.
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My TSi was pretty stock. I think you have good point and it may work better with a modded engine/VGT turbo.
BTW im working on the details for he351ve swap on my wrx ;)
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My TSi was pretty stock. I think you have good point and it may work better with a modded engine/VGT turbo.
BTW im working on the details for he351ve swap on my wrx ;)
It only works if you actually actuate the butterflies correctly otherwise it definitely sucks. People claim a 30+ ft/lb increase in torque. I will have to fill the bottom of the ports to match the 2g head ports too. It just fits in with the whole goal of the VGT turbo on the car. A nice wide usable powerband with lots of torque. :noel:
Looking forward to seeing that.
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I have a whole spare engine for my TSi still( in a thousand pieces of course). Im pretty sure I sold the car with the cyclone intake, but i will double check my parts cause I would give you that shit for the price of shipping if I have it.
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shits looking good wonder if one would fit in my galant :yes: haha i dont want to do half radiator either. but i might someday.
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The whole idea behind spooling a turbo is making enough pressure in the manifold to create X turbine speed. Inrease V.E. for lower-flow (low rpm/psi), and you get more air/exhaust flowing through the head to add to that pressure. Same deal with cams - big cams reduce low-rpm V.E., and it's not surprising that hurts spooling. It's just that most people prefer a +10% increase in topend power over a +20% difference before boost.
For whatever reason the Honda dual-runner intakes either suck at topend, or the single-runner IM's are just that good [to make the dual-runners look bad]. They do add ~10% more power on a GSR before ~5k where they open, so they work in some regard. The few cases I've seen a GSR mani modded to replace an LS long-runner IM, it made a big increase in topend w/o any reduction in lowend.
I actually plan on modding a GSR IM to increase the long runners, decrease the short runners, and increase plenum size. That along with another contraption I'm making should help spool/response and still give decent topend.
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I have a whole spare engine for my TSi still( in a thousand pieces of course). Im pretty sure I sold the car with the cyclone intake, but i will double check my parts cause I would give you that shit for the price of shipping if I have it.
That would be cool man. :noel:
The whole idea behind spooling a turbo is making enough pressure in the manifold to create X turbine speed. Inrease V.E. for lower-flow (low rpm/psi), and you get more air/exhaust flowing through the head to add to that pressure. Same deal with cams - big cams reduce low-rpm V.E., and it's not surprising that hurts spooling. It's just that most people prefer a +10% increase in topend power over a +20% difference before boost.
For whatever reason the Honda dual-runner intakes either suck at topend, or the single-runner IM's are just that good [to make the dual-runners look bad]. They do add ~10% more power on a GSR before ~5k where they open, so they work in some regard. The few cases I've seen a GSR mani modded to replace an LS long-runner IM, it made a big increase in topend w/o any reduction in lowend.
I actually plan on modding a GSR IM to increase the long runners, decrease the short runners, and increase plenum size. That along with another contraption I'm making should help spool/response and still give decent topend.
Most of the people who have run the DSM ones and set them up properly really like them. The reduction in topend seems to not be too much of a concern when compared to the fixed stock manifolds for the 4g63. IMO the honda intakes are far better than the DSM ones so you are probably right about that. Which is why so many people go for the SMIM's on DSMs for extra topend.
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shits looking good wonder if one would fit in my galant :yes: haha i dont want to do half radiator either. but i might someday.
I'm sure it could be made to fit. I've never seen a galant bay up close though.
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shit gets tight up front. couldnt do what you did with a full face rad. where in MN are ya?
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shit gets tight up front. couldnt do what you did with a full face rad. where in MN are ya?
Could try a half size radiator. I know some people have done them on DSM's without problems.
MN? If that's meant for me I'm not in MN. I'm in KS.
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oh ahha for some reason i thought you were up there nvmd
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For whatever reason the Honda dual-runner intakes either suck at topend, or the single-runner IM's are just that good [to make the dual-runners look bad]. They do add ~10% more power on a GSR before ~5k where they open, so they work in some regard. The few cases I've seen a GSR mani modded to replace an LS long-runner IM, it made a big increase in topend w/o any reduction in lowend.
none of that is surprising, what rpm max torque happens has alot more to do with runner cross-section then runner length. i dont why oems fuck with this shit, maximum cruzing efficiency is more important than simplicity i guess? max torque wont change a whole lot unless you make the port bigger or smaller.
also, i got the actuator moving the other day, after i finish writing the control loop, i'll post some schematics and shit. http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=10007.msg127066#msg127066 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=10007.msg127066#msg127066)
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Wow I suck. Stupid I haven't got this thing running.
Hopefully have the old girl running in the next couple weeks. Stock 6 bolt, with a 2g head.
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Wow I suck. Stupid I haven't got this thing running.
Hopefully have the old girl running in the next couple weeks. Stock 6 bolt, with a 2g head.
No built motor?
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Wow I suck. Stupid I haven't got this thing running.
Hopefully have the old girl running in the next couple weeks. Stock 6 bolt, with a 2g head.
No built motor?
Not for the moment. Long story with wiseco being gay. I'll have to explain later and show some of my own pics. Here is the basic problem though. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/371728-my-terrible-experience-wiseco.html (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/371728-my-terrible-experience-wiseco.html)
This engine will be temporary till I can afford another set of pistons unless they finally stop being homo.
When either happens this engine will go into my first car, 90 gsx, or a colt if I can find one locally cheap enough.
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Looking for a 4g63 cyclone intake manifold if anyone has one laying around.
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Robb's best friend had two a year or so ago, Robb was tittering about it. There's a good chance they're long gone, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
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Robb's best friend had two a year or so ago, Robb was tittering about it. There's a good chance they're long gone, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
Your thinking of the 3 RVR manifolds. They all went to ds-map guys.
Dave W. proved the RVR>cyclone manifolds, Aero is just doing this for the fuck of it I think.
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noslow is still trying to unload a whole GSX engine and tranny, any takers.
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Robb's best friend had two a year or so ago, Robb was tittering about it. There's a good chance they're long gone, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
Your thinking of the 3 RVR manifolds. They all went to ds-map guys.
Dave W. proved the RVR>cyclone manifolds, Aero is just doing this for the fuck of it I think.
I'm looking for the 30-50 ft/lbs and earlier torque(and spool) VS the 1g manifold, with the possible slight high rpm loss vs the 1g manifold. The high RPM power should be an upgrade over the POS 2g intake also.
I'd like to experiment with a rvr/evo3 too sometime.
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Think I found one.
Then I just have to epoxy fill it to match the 2g head ports.
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Making some progress finally. Stock 6 bolt motor until I get wiseco piston BS taken care of and my stroker back.
Stock high mileage 6 bolt bottom end. Taken apart, inspected, cleaned up and reassembled.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2F2010%2520build%2FIMAG0184.jpg&hash=3bfeef624be084e4dd40df25fd3a577250f6f8ad)
Stock cams, high mileage head with new valve seals and new revised 3g lifters.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2F2010%2520build%2FIMAG0177.jpg&hash=a8b304c97997c648915d4dfa0dae6fb25b854b7f)
Mocking up the turbo and manifold, just for my benefit lol.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2F2010%2520build%2FIMAG0195.jpg&hash=1c07c3b4b06d953e54f385908fcdfd2e8d7b9a63)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2F2010%2520build%2FIMAG0196.jpg&hash=96c6ebe139f5dc52790b687f87be94b04d736b08)
Got the cyclone intake manifold on the way, stock 2g till then.
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I have a syclone intake mani. Just sitting under my bench. Has tb, and coil pack. Hit me up if you want it. I guess I will see what its worth :-\ I know it was off of a imported 7bolt though, so whoe the fuck knows what it is.
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I have a syclone intake mani. Just sitting under my bench. Has tb, and coil pack. Hit me up if you want it. I guess I will see what its worth :-\ I know it was off of a imported 7bolt though, so whoe the fuck knows what it is.
I bought one for $100 shipped two days ago. :(
Off a 7 bolt? I'm curious now . AFAIK the cyclones were all on the 6 bolt large port motors. I'd love to see some pictures of it.
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Got a few little things to do left. Some electrical and cooling system stuff. Hope to get it started fire the first time in almost 2 years tomorrow. Will do a little tuning on the dirt roads close to the farm. Then gotta get tags and insurance so I can really get into it. Hopefully the stock head bolts and felpro hg will hold up as well a the jy bottom end.
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Farm? That's fucking awesome. I grew up (partially) in a duplex owned by landed gentry aka a tobacco and corn farmer before big ag killed the little guy. Pics pls, I fondly remember walking the pastures (horse and cow), the upper 40, the lower 40, and the mountainside adjacent as a child. You don't have mountains as you are a failure, but I'll forgive you if you show me your family spread.
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I just realized I don't have any good ones.
Its not a particularly pretty place. 140 acres of land. grow wheat mainly, 70 is covered by pasture from the CRP program. Only livestock we have is a horse( my parents are hippy-ish vegetarians). Most of our farm related stuff we do is local custom harvesting of wheat, soybeans and milo.
Half mile long driveway winding along the tree row.
Here are a couple shots of part of it from when I went flying over it last time.
My DSM is parked under the apricot tree just to the top of the three red combines lol. Which is where all the current work is being performed.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHome%2FP5030420.jpg&hash=52d2e0cb42c87719f4ad4129aae2687ee49ab6f2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHome%2FP5030421.jpg&hash=eca720abbf7400ab5a29cbe979ce72721d9c4fce)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHome%2FP5030419.jpg&hash=77f2dfd59cb84fe85a09e9b1b6b5b1f43eaae329)
The windmill my dad built from scratch, mine and my brothers names painted on it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FHome%2FP5141101.jpg&hash=ede3f06b4ec88c7d15dbf5a1803b5010dc79c190)
Some more pictures of the place are here
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=745.0 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=745.0)
I'll see about getting some more this weekend. I didn't realize I had so few of so many memories. :-[
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So Aero, have you determined the proper method to derive a usable ethanol-based fuel from your backyard?
You need to come hang out in the mountains. Up here a 5 acre spread of tobacco will make you a millionaire. Ten acres worth of mountainside will yield a decent return as a gated community investment. Nothing to harvest either. :noel:
BTW, the windmill is fucking brilliant. Give your dad props from me.
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Awesome. Wandering fields is the absolute best shit to do as a child.
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So Aero, have you determined the proper method to derive a usable ethanol-based fuel from your backyard?
You need to come hang out in the mountains. Up here a 5 acre spread of tobacco will make you a millionaire. Ten acres worth of mountainside will yield a decent return as a gated community investment. Nothing to harvest either. :noel:
BTW, the windmill is fucking brilliant. Give your dad props from me.
Agree 100% on the growing up out there. Kids can entertain themselves forever outdoors. I wouldn't have had it any other way.
Around here corn is the only common way. There is quite a bit of corn, but its mostly irrigated and we don't own any of that yet.
The car I call my DD currently is a 75 300D, its got dual tank grease kit. I run it quite a bit on used hydraulic fluid out of all the farm equipment. So thats right along that idea lol.
So went to try and start the car and couldn't get a crank signal to the MS. Turns out water got in the CAS an ruined the crank side of it. Going to pick one up from a CL ad locally here in an hour or so. Will try again tomorrow. Got a bunch of electrical gremlins to fix too. For some reason turning the key to start wont send any power to the starter solenoid. I know mice got into the car from sitting outside, I'm hoping they didn't chew anything important. Fuckers.
I've made so many little changes to the car remembering everything is a real bitch after almost 2 years of not messing with it.
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The engine bay/harness of the porsche gets sprayed down with glass cleaner twice a year to keep mice out. Works pretty well.
I want a CAS in my hands that died from getting wet, wanna find out why they do it.
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I'll keep that trick in mind, with a DSM its bound to happen sometime.
So I got the CAS thing fixed, except for needing a new connector, the one I got with the CAS is half broken and I don't trust it. My old one was a 90, and the replacment is a 91+ with a different connector. Anyone have a junk 2.0 1g 91-94 DSM laying around with a good connector?
Got it running, like ass( nearly 2 year old E85, needing tuning badly), after running it for 5 minutes or so I found a nice size hole in the radiator. The plastic endtanks on it are in bad shape too, but still bad timing. I've seen a few DSM guys use aftermarket thicker half size civic radiators. Would really work better for me with the turbo that I have. The huge hotside sitting so close to the radiator contributes heavily to my overheating problems, and the space would be nice. Anyone have any input on those? Otherwise I need to just find a stock one.
The geometry is a bit different losing the 6mm extra deck heigh of the 2.4l, and I'm sure some other small differenced so I'm going to have to cut off the top of my homemade solid motor mount and weld a plate onto it for reinforcement since it hits the inlet of the turbo now. lol
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Vw scirocco rad is the shit. Should work on a 2g. Id go for that before the honda unit. I think jd is running one on his drag car.
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So I got the CAS thing fixed, except for needing a new connector, the one I got with the CAS is half broken and I don't trust it. My old one was a 90, and the replacment is a 91+ with a different connector. Anyone have a junk 2.0 1g 91-94 DSM laying around with a good connector?
take a pic of said connector..I may have one for ya
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Vw scirocco rad is the shit. Should work on a 2g. Id go for that before the honda unit. I think jd is running one on his drag car.
I will look into that. Anything that still cools well and gets me a bit more clearance with the turbine housing. I've only got about 1.5" or so as it is now.
take a pic of said connector..I may have one for ya
That would be awesome dude. Thanks.
The plug is shaped like this 4 pins. Top left. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/justin/CASwiring.gif (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/justin/CASwiring.gif)
Here is a picture of it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2Ftappingrpmsignal.jpg&hash=29803c511d26007c56a21a75616427aaf468467d)
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Ill have to get back to you..it may be a few days before I get a chance to dig through my junkpile
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Ill have to get back to you..it may be a few days before I get a chance to dig through my junkpile
No hurry man. Thank you.
So I solved the motor mount/compressor inlet interference problem tho CHMT way. :noel:
Lopped off the top of the mount with the chop saw.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FIMAG0293.jpg&hash=b70bd51c7ddea669fa1988854502f3d89657dd16)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi6.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy210%2Faero83%2FIMAG0294.jpg&hash=4d2f4c20c3c6fde79daed0e058381a2d1b274e90)
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nice to see some progress, i predict your headgasket goes out on first ripper of 15 pounds.
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nice to see some progress, i predict your headgasket goes out on first ripper of 15 pounds.
With my luck probably lol. It SHOULD hold WAY more than that though, if nothing is wrong lol. Knock on wood.
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which felpro are you running? mls or the composite one?
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which felpro are you running? mls or the composite one?
Stock style composite. Quite a few people have used it and done ok.
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which felpro are you running? mls or the composite one?
Stock style composite. Quite a few people have used it and done ok.
I'm using a topline composite with arp studs. I'm too cheap for metal.
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which felpro are you running? mls or the composite one?
Stock style composite. Quite a few people have used it and done ok.
I'm using a topline composite with arp studs. I'm too cheap for metal.
The composites hold pretty damn well on these engines. I just hope the head was flat ad didn't have some imperfections in the sealing area.
I've got the Cometic MLS that was on my stroker, but it is thicker and an 87mm bore. I wanted to keep as much compression as possible with the 7.8:1 stock 1g pistons since I'm running E85.
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Looks like youre doing some real good stuff with the car, can't wait to see the results with the VGT.
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So she runs. Fighting tuning problems though.
My fucking LC-1 isn't working worth a shit. Doesn't read right, both a free air cal and sensor heater cal didn't do shit. Sometimes it will stick at one extreme or another for a while. Sometimes stuck at 12.01. Wont communicate with the computer on the serial port no matter what I do so I can check it or the settings.
I've checked grounds and added a few to help with offsets.
Won't be buying anymore innovate products I've heard too many issues like that. Gonna get something else.
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plx
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Or a 14point7 SLC ;D
I hope to have a review of it up soon. :yes:
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The SLC is what I'm looking at actually. Get that review up damn it!
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The SLC is what I'm looking at actually. Get that review up damn it!
OK ;D
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Updates?
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Holy shit the thread is back? It disappeared for a long time along with a lot of other threads. Some corruption or something?
When did it get fixed?
No updates, I've had student loans, gotten married and had children since. The car sits in the garage with a spun bearing. Have most of what I need to put it back together but funds for the machine work + odds and ends hasn't been available. :'(
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Been back for over a yea!
DO WORK!!!
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Been back for over a yea!
DO WORK!!!
Damn I had no idea!
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Been back for over a yea!
DO WORK!!!
Damn I had no idea!
Yea, I may have even added it to the build thread database.